Does anyone have any soldering/resoldering tips when finishing up their pickups? I tried lightly sanding the wire before soldering, but it's tough! It's also difficult to hold and control the thin wire while soldering.
Thanks,
Wade
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I put an eyelet in a hole on the base of the pickup and wrap the 42 ga wire through that several times then insert the 20ga lead wire into the hole and solder everything together in the brass eyelet. I have not needed to sand the fine wire as the solder will melt the thin poly/enamel off and make good contact with the wire.
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Secrets/Build_your_own_custom_p...
thanks bruce ferrero that also helped me with the same concern.
where do you get the eyelets?
I get my pickup parts from this guy on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bobbin-Eyelets-80-pieces-For-Single-bobbins...
and eyelets are free shipping
You can get eyelets from Mouser Electronics. http://www.mouser.com/
If you're doing a direct connection between the lead wire and the magnet wire, it helps to secure the lead wire from moving. You can use tape to secure the wire to your work surface, leaving the end sticking up in the air or off the end of the table.
Lightly sand the magnet wire so you get good electrical contact. Use 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Tear off a little piece and fold it in half. Put the wire inside and lightly pull the sandpaper over the wire.
Wrap the magnet wire several times around the lead wire, so you get a good mechanical connection, then solder.
You could also use one of those third hand devices. http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html
Good advice from everyone - I'd also add use a good paste flux - my favorite is this, I've used Kester SP-44 since the early 80's. Their SP-44 rosin core lead solder is my all time favorite as well.
Yes, you'll need a hotter iron with a bigger tip to get it to stick to metal.
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