Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jeff "Sweet T" Tinsley on March 4, 2010 at 5:28am

Very cool, Wes. Thanks for posting this (these?)
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Permalink Reply by Jonathan on March 5, 2010 at 1:42am

Thanks. that's a nice chart. i sure wish i could find some those wood varieties where i live. i've found some oak but here in Japan it's almost entirely cedar and pine for sale at the hardware stores.

i'm using the oak as a brace and attaching some hard pine to the outer sides. what i was hoping is that i could find something other than oak for the fingerboard (looks like i'll be ordering some rosewood from stewmac at this point).

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Permalink Reply by Jeremiah Cornelius on March 5, 2010 at 7:52am

Thanks for this, Wes. It is very helpful, and also just really cool. Still, I want anecdotes, not data. :-)

If I am used to shaping necks quickly with a sureform and rasp on Poplar boards, will I find the same technique lacking/exhausting with Maple? With Red Oak?

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on March 5, 2010 at 8:04am

Well I would imagine so. Those woods are hard but different. If you use oak, bear in mind the grain is wider than on maple and I have had some trouble making sure I don't dig into the wood causing divits. Go slow. I would use maple at all possible. Makes a better project in my opinion. But then again, I do use poplar which is not as popular now days. I have a secret that helps out -- laminated neck. I will do a laminated neck now and if you go to my page and albums, you will see some info on that.

I use a sureform and its great so you should be ok.

-WY

Jeremiah Cornelius said:

Thanks for this, Wes. It is very helpful, and also just really cool. Still, I want anecdotes, not data. :-)

If I am used to shaping necks quickly with a sureform and rasp on Poplar boards, will I find the same technique lacking/exhausting with Maple? With Red Oak?

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Permalink Reply by Jeremiah Cornelius on March 5, 2010 at 8:22am

Thanks, again. This is a help!
I am building (planning) a short scale bass - and even with a steel truss rod, I expect that Poplar might disappoint me. I do through the body designs, where the strings are anchored to a tailpiece on the base of the same wood that the tuners are attached at the other end. This is strong, and with dense wood, tends to provide great sustain - the necks hum in my palm.

But with bass tuners cranking 4 big weed whip lines? I need a hard, flex resistant post down the middle. There is at least 12" more leverage on this one piece. That much more to go bow-shaped!

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Permalink Reply by Nathan King on March 5, 2010 at 9:14am

Exhausting? Probably, but it a good way. I use a sureform a lot, too, and oak really requires you to get a little more physical with it. But a lot of folks (myself included) think the neck shaping part of the equation is one of the most rewarding, so it's worth it.

Jeremiah Cornelius said:

Thanks for this, Wes. It is very helpful, and also just really cool. Still, I want anecdotes, not data. :-)

If I am used to shaping necks quickly with a sureform and rasp on Poplar boards, will I find the same technique lacking/exhausting with Maple? With Red Oak?

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on March 6, 2010 at 3:18am

Here is a guide from the University of Tennessee that talks about hardwood identification.

-WY

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