Hi Chuck ,thanks for the advise. Your design looks pretty do able. What if anything are you doing to the top of the box to re enforce where the strings will go? Is it enough to just put the block on the inside lid under the bridge? I have seen this done but am not sure it will hold over time. I am only planning on ukulele strings and probably only 3 of them. This is going to be a small uke I have a sweet but short and thin Punch box I hope to use. I really liked you builds, they are legant and so well constructed. I also noticed you are a wood carver, I have been teaching myself to carve wood with exacto knives and a few files for the last few years. It is relaxing and I enjoy it. I was a painting major in collage so my art background is pretty strong. If I can get a better grip on the knives with out cutting myself I will be in business. Anyway, thanks for the advise. I will try it this week end.....matt

Hi Chuck,

Thank you for commenting on my collection.

I just took a look at the pictures of your collection and was very impressed with the quality and creativity of your builds. I particularly like the Tahitian ukulele.

Thank you for your friendship.

http://www.amazradiostore.com/product_p/acbg-csheg-v1.htm     Here`s an old customer of mine that did the same type of rear string design....he used a roller bearing set up.

Thank you Chuck.

Gene Jaimez

thanks chuck

Hey,

The top piece is an 8" round cut from 1/4" inch birch ply. The sound hole is 2" and I use 35# test for strings, but you can experiment with that. Have fun.

Hi Chuck,

I'd be happy to help with any questions u have.

Hi Chuck

The stuff I use is  4x14mm steel flat bar from a local DIY store.Have used the same stuff on a couple of six strings, now a year or so old ,and the necks are still straight