Fancy set-ups have a stop you can set to ensure you don't go too deep. Mine doesn't! The depth of my saw teeth is about the perfect cut depth, so I just cut until the teeth are just buried in the kerf. Hope that makes sense! You can also make a mark on the saw blade, but these can tend to wear off with usage. Again, hope this helps!
Sounds perfect and just what's called for Rev. Quick question if I may? How do you go about making sure you get all your depths right on each cut? Is there a trick I need to know or a tip you can share?
Used a 1x3 (inch) for the base. Say about 12" long. Made 4 pieces of 1x3 cut squarely about 6" long each. Marked a line in the center width of the base using a square. Glued 2 of the 1x3x6" pieces lining up with the square centerline, onto the edges of the base pieces. Then took my flush-cut (fretting) saw and placed it against the two glued 1x3x6 boards - allowing me to then glue the remaining two 1x3x6" boards up against the sawblade (with a paper shim or two to give a little clearance). Once it's glued, you have a tight mitre saw 'custom made' to fit the width of your fretting saw. (Top and End views below)
Thanks again Rev. I'm going to check it on scrap wood first as I don't have a digital thickness measuring doodah. I'm hoping that the blade on my mitresaw will work. It's one of those saws on a stand that you can dial the angle needed by lifting a lever and turning on the marked out semi circl6. It's a manual saw but has runners/guides that the blade runs between. Really handy anyway. I THINK it's called a mitre saw but I could be wrong. Will try it anyway. To my eye the blade looks nice and thin at least.
Yep, skinny blade is key! I bought a couple of flush cut saws at Harbor Freight that work perfect. 8 or 9 bucks as I recall. Check them though, the newer model cuts a little wider.
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That helps for sure, Rev. Thanks for the tips. I'll let you know how I get on lol.
Fancy set-ups have a stop you can set to ensure you don't go too deep. Mine doesn't! The depth of my saw teeth is about the perfect cut depth, so I just cut until the teeth are just buried in the kerf. Hope that makes sense! You can also make a mark on the saw blade, but these can tend to wear off with usage. Again, hope this helps!
Sounds perfect and just what's called for Rev. Quick question if I may? How do you go about making sure you get all your depths right on each cut? Is there a trick I need to know or a tip you can share?
Dang! Couldn't find a picture of it!
Used a 1x3 (inch) for the base. Say about 12" long. Made 4 pieces of 1x3 cut squarely about 6" long each. Marked a line in the center width of the base using a square. Glued 2 of the 1x3x6" pieces lining up with the square centerline, onto the edges of the base pieces. Then took my flush-cut (fretting) saw and placed it against the two glued 1x3x6 boards - allowing me to then glue the remaining two 1x3x6" boards up against the sawblade (with a paper shim or two to give a little clearance). Once it's glued, you have a tight mitre saw 'custom made' to fit the width of your fretting saw. (Top and End views below)
It's serving my previously wonky cuts well Rev lol. I don't see anything in your post showing what you built Rev. Can you link it again please?
SBD&OGB - - yep - that sounds like a nice mitre saw! Here's what I threw together:
Not done it yet Jeff but I'll let you know. Best of fortunes to you in the fretting!
Thanks again Rev. I'm going to check it on scrap wood first as I don't have a digital thickness measuring doodah. I'm hoping that the blade on my mitresaw will work. It's one of those saws on a stand that you can dial the angle needed by lifting a lever and turning on the marked out semi circl6. It's a manual saw but has runners/guides that the blade runs between. Really handy anyway. I THINK it's called a mitre saw but I could be wrong. Will try it anyway. To my eye the blade looks nice and thin at least.
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