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I don't know the best place but Old Lowe sells them:
Thanks Mr. cajun. I was thinking about running it in a couple of inches and shimming the gap sounds like a pretty reasonable solution. I think a composite door shim is about 1-1/2" wide and 1/4" would be about right for the wide end. It wouldn't take much to modify one for a nice fit I would think. They cut easy and I believe they may just take a stain also.
I just can't get make it so the whole works is so high off my box that the pickup I'd like to use won't function well without shimming up the heck out of that also.
howdy ron carlson,the situation you are describing is how the necks are set-up on archtop guitars---plenty neck angle with the fingerboard ending on top of the body.most i have seen or worked on have a shim under the fingerboard where it attches at the body.you can make the shim and glue it to the underside of the fingerboard.the result you may have with lots of neck angle will probably give you a lot of distance where your bridge will be, so you will probably need a tall bridge.to make the shim you can just measure the gap between the bottom of the fingerboard at its end where it goes over the body--just for example lets say its 1/4 inch gap--and lets say your fingerboard goes over the box just for example 2 inches..then your shim will be 1/4 at the end to 0 inch at the place where the neck joins the body 2 inches from the edge of the fingerboard that is over the body, and it will be however wide your fingerboard is.not a lot of math in this shim type situation.hope this helps you.
Hey!
I have a build question for all you old pro's out there.
I've been sorting out plans for my new geetar. I would like to introduce some neck angle but would also like to have my fretboard run over onto the top of my box. It just dawned on me that this is going to be problematic. Is there really any way to have both without lowering the neck and cutting more into the box to allow for the fretboard/neck angle???
If you didn't do something similar to that, the fretboard would be elevated off the box I would imagine and get worse the further in you brought it.
I'm going to be building a 2 piece neck from 1" x 2" and 1/4" (wood or bar stock aluminum) material for the fretboard.
I hope this isn't going to involve a lot of math. I hate math ;)
Ron
I was planning on using either the 6" aluminum cone on ebay for about $20 or the brass/aluminum ones on Smokehouse Guitars for $25. No fancy cover plate, but sure looks like they are worth the money. Anyone use them yet? Can imbed peizo in bridge.....guess he wire goes down through the cone inside the box?
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/img0014-2?context=user
Above is a link to a couple of pictures on my page of the jig I used to route the channel for my truss-rods... The basic idea is I have an adjustable fence on the underside of the jig. It allows me to position the slot on the neck. There is a collar on the router that guides the cutter. The jig and neck are held in place in the vice. Note I am in the camp of taking many light passes, something you would have to do with a dremel. (Didn't your dremel come with an edge guide? that's what I would use. ( if that was the only tool I had for the job) One last comment obviously I do all this work before I carve the neck. Hope this helps the cause.
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