There are many ways to install frets on a CBG. Some CBG makers use toothpics, some use regular tang type guitar frets installed in a slotted fret board or directly into the neck material, and some use a wood burning tool as a position marker on slide type CBG's. You're mind is the limit!

I have a thing for using quality finishing nails. You can find them in just about every size, quality and also in brass, steel or even stainless. Finishing nails give you the look of a rustic home made CBG without going toward the standard guitar fret look.

Here is the way that I prefer to install them...

On this particular CBG, I used brass finishing nails with the heads cut off glued directly to an Oak neck. After measuring the width of your neck, cut the nails off slightly larger with a strong pair of nippers. Then, grind them down using a grinder to just a tad bit larger than the proper length. You want the frets extending past the sides of the neck, but just slightly.

After marking the fret positions on the neck or fret board, cut straight, shallow slots with a fine toothed hacksaw blade. A hacksaw blade is just about the right width for most finishing nails which are long enough to span a 3 to 5 string neck. You can make the cuts shallow or deep, so that the fret sits high or low. It's a preference that must be decided upon.

I finish the slot off with a small round rat tail or a large nut file. I then glue them into the slot with strong epoxy type glue. The best fret glue I have found is golf club shaft glue, which is very strong, and available at Golfsmith or at Golf Galaxy. (Yes, I make custom golf clubs too!)

After the glue dries, you can file the edges to about 30 to 40 degrees using either a belt sander or a file. I use the belt sander method, but this method does have a tendancy to chew up belts pretty quickly due to the rough and sharp edges of the frets extending past the sides of the neck. You can also ruin the edge of a nice neck or fret board very easily and quickly.

Another method is to use a fine file, and file each side of each individual fret which takes alot of time. Another way is to mount a file edgewise in a piece of wood a bit longer than the file, at the angle in which you want the edges of the frets to be (usually 30-40 degrees). You can then file the fret edges down by stroking the board mounted file lengthwise along the neck.



By Dragon

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Replies to This Discussion

The last two necks me and my son made used 1/16" brass rod, glued into slots cut w/hack saw blade and then filed to shape. First individually, and then by just using a flat file to shape the ends together. I used titebond wood glue, clamped for 24 hrs. My son used gel super glue, clamped for 30 min. On both, we roughed up the "back" side of the rod to give the rods some tooth for the glue. They both have survived the vibrations of the final finishing sander on the necks w/o coming loose, so I think they will stay put. Extra fine steel wool will give them a nice bright shine if that is what you want. We used masking tape on the edges of the neck to keep the glue from seeping out of the slots, and applied the wood glue w/a hypodermic needle ( I give the dog allergy shots at home,yuk!). The gel ca came in a pinpoint dispenser that worked fine too. Go easy with the glue. Check the pics in my profile if you want.
I took a class that had us ink the tops of the frets with a sharpie type marker and hit the fretboard lengthwise with a long flat fine file. Low frets stay black, high ones show bright metal. Repeat as needed.
BTW, The classes were help in Chicago and I can recomend them highly (some interesting custom builds too). .

John Sims said:
One way I use is to cut your grooves and then file them to the correct depth, but don't glue them in. Then, I use a straight edge and lay it across the frets and the neck lengthwise, and you'll easily be able to see which frets are needing more filing in the groove portion, and which frets are filed too low, which means that you'll have to file the rest of the fret channels/grooves a bit lower, or add more glue (sometimes mixed with sawdust that matches the neck wood) under the fret...

C. B. Gitty said:
The one time I tried using nails on a one-string diddleybow/canjo, I had issues with the frets/nails being at slightly different heights, which caused some of the frets to buzz. Have you run into this? Is the only way around it using extreme care when cutting the grooves they rest in?
thats such a great concept. One of the reasons I have put off attempting to build a CGB is that with limited tools and no workshop making the fretboard seemed beyond me. i.e. not getting the right depth for the frets, what type of glue etc... you have answered them all....
I posted these on a forum thread. These are jigs and a
saw I use with a modification that includes a depth gauge. The jig is scraps of wood left over and some dowel made a removable jig to cut square frets with. I also looked at StewMacs saw and decided to make an adjustable depth gauge. Once the guide reaches the top of the jig, the cut should be the depth. Nice and even. I just need some 1/8" screws to hold the depth gauge with.

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