Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by John Sims on January 3, 2009 at 4:09pm

Alot of you use this product for finishes. I have not used it yet, but I have used MinWax products, particularly the spray laquer. I like it because it dries fast and is very forgiving. What products and techniques have you used?

Permalink Reply by John Sims on January 4, 2009 at 4:04pm

HERE IS A SITE that is filled with information on wood finishing, and everything you need for woodworking.

Here is a great site for learning how to prepare your wood and apply stain or varnish for a ... and a site for making new wood look old. Also, here's a site on Tung Oil finishing...

Here is a marketing website for scrollsaw techniques, a Scroll Saw techniques site, and a woodworking forum called The Carving Path that is full of great information on wood finishing techniques, particularly for wood carvers...

Also , I thought I'd include a link to Dremel Tips & Tricks that has much more valuable information than just Dremel tool techniques.

Permalink Reply by John Sims on January 8, 2009 at 5:35am

The Crackling Process

(from Franklin International, the makers of Titebond products)

Titebond Liquid Hide Glue can be used to achieve "crackling". This process can give an antique appearance to furniture as well as many other items. With this effect, virtually any item will appear distinguishably aged. When a dried coating of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is painted with a latex paint, the Hide Glue absorbs much of the water from the paint. As the surface of the paint is drying, the Hide Glue is swelling or stretching from this additional moisture. The swelling of the Hide Glue effectively "pulls apart" the top coat of paint. As a result, the crackle effect is achieved.

Instructions
1. Crackling will work on virtually any surface. The most successful working material is wood. However, the
crackling process will occur with metal, glass, rubber and plastic. (Some surfaces may require a sealer.)

2. Choose two colors of latex paint. Water-based paint must be used. One color should be lighter than the other color. Choose one color as the base coat. The topcoat will be the predominant color of the finished piece.

3. Coat the piece with the first color and allow to thoroughly dry. This will be the color that shows through the
cracks.

4. Apply an even generous coat of the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. Make sure that the piece is covered completely. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly. The drying process may take up to 12 hours. The drying time will vary according to your humidity condition.

5. After the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is dry, apply the second color of water-based paint. Do not overlap your brush strokes. The crackle effect may not occur in the overlapped areas. The effect should be immediate.

6. Allow the paint to dry.

7. Apply a NON-waterbased, waterproof sealer.

General tips

Titebond Liquid Hide Glue may be thinned with water. We don't recommend thinning the glue any more
than 50% by weight or by volume. The more that the glue is thinned, the smaller the cracks will be on your
finished piece.

The glue has a hard time sticking to a gloss or a semi-gloss base coat. You can sand the surface to get better
glue adhesion.

It is a good idea to do a practice with all your supplies before you begin on your actual piece.

Two square feet can be covered with one fluid ounce of the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.
Don't be afraid to be creative! Have fun!

For further information on the crackling process or the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue contact a Franklin
International technical service representative at 1-800-347-GLUE(4583).

Permalink Reply by John Sims on January 8, 2009 at 3:58pm

I really like the MinWax products, especially the spray laquer. You just have to experiment with their products to get the best finish in regards to what you are looking for. Great observation TG!

By the way, you can get the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue to do the 'crackling' process HERE and also read more about how to use hide type glues HERE...

Permalink Reply by Wade on January 11, 2009 at 3:29am

The crackle technique is a great look. I remember experimenting with different paints and never got the look I wanted. I 've never thought of using glue. I'm going try this and see what happens. I believe the crackling happens when the top layer dries before the bottom layer, resulting in the crackle effect. Thanks John.

Permalink Reply by John Sims on January 13, 2009 at 9:47am

HERE is a good white paper on finishes. Also, Josh Bayou has posted a great article at Smokehouse Guitars on Tung Oil finishes HERE.

Permalink Reply by L.J. on January 17, 2009 at 2:16am

I like to use the min wax fast drying polyurethane in the can.and a 2" sponge/brush. I use 3 to5 coats(sanding in between300 grit)I use the minwax because you can sand after about 6 hours.(can says 4).but I feel it rolling up a lil after 4 hours.(guess that depends on your humidity)My final coat always goes on after a full day drying time.
I usually dont put as much on the box as I do the neck.I use really thin coats on the box,till it looks and feels right. if the box is painted I usually just put a couple coats of krylon clear Gloss to help protect the stickers and avoid scratches to the paint. I dont use alot of spray because of overspray loss(i'm trying to save a penny). And it kicks up more fumes.

Permalink Reply by Doug Christensen on February 16, 2009 at 2:29pm

I use a clearcoat that I can wetsand after 10 minutes. Called "dupicolor" Acryllic Laquer Clearcoat. Can be handled in 30 minutes. This is with a medium coat. Typically to start, I will shoot over a 400 grit sanding; 2 light coats, then 1 medium. 30 minutes after my first coat I am wet sanding, then do it again. In one evening I can shoot 20 coats & wetsand 400, then 2000, then polish with a clear coat variable grit polish called "Plastx clear cleaner & polish" from Meguiar's. Both of these products I buy from Advance Auto Parts. The last step brings the clear coat to a mirror finish. Maintaining this finish I use Turtle Wax "Express Shine" (Walmart) it has no grit, only 100% Carnuba, basicly guitar wax. But caution re spraying after any waxing, you'll have to sand with 2000 grit paper before any touch up. The 2000 paper will bring the clear from a Satin to an almost gloss, so I can always inspect for voids & re-shoot a LIGHT coat every 10 minutes directly at the void to fill it. The Acryllic Laquer wants to act hydrophobic, flowing away from voids, so shooting a multipul light coats fills these voids (holes) and with enough coats & sanding, become a smooth surface. I will use a whole can (16 Oz) on one neck with at least 20+ coats. These again are normally 2 light & 1 medium coats, then sand 400 & 2000. Polyurthane is great, however with the Red Oak that I end up using, it has a ripple in the grain that I have a terrible time removing. The dark grain is soft, the light is hard, etc.
L.J. said:

I like to use the min wax fast drying polyurethane in the can.and a 2" sponge/brush. I use 3 to5 coats(sanding in between300 grit)I use the minwax because you can sand after about 6 hours.(can says 4).but I feel it rolling up a lil after 4 hours.(guess that depends on your humidity)My final coat always goes on after a full day drying time.
I usually dont put as much on the box as I do the neck.I use really thin coats on the box,till it looks and feels right. if the box is painted I usually just put a couple coats of krylon clear Gloss to help protect the stickers and avoid scratches to the paint. I dont use alot of spray because of overspray loss(i'm trying to save a penny). And it kicks up more fumes.

Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on May 3, 2009 at 5:25pm

This MinWax type is my favorite as I have had nothing but great luck with it. I can layer it on pretty heavy and it still dries even and thin -- assuming I don't have runs. I usually use a hair drier set to medium heat and speed to dry it to the no-run point.

I use a bristle brush but sponge can work too. Also you can use a cloth pad (forget the correct term). 8"x8" tee shirt material filled with another 8x8 piece folded down and tied up. This works GREAT as a dabber to put on stain or coat a fretboard with a really thin coat.

L.J. said:

I like to use the min wax fast drying polyurethane in the can.and a 2" sponge/brush. I use 3 to5 coats(sanding in between300 grit)I use the minwax because you can sand after about 6 hours.(can says 4).but I feel it rolling up a lil after 4 hours.(guess that depends on your humidity)My final coat always goes on after a full day drying time.
I usually dont put as much on the box as I do the neck.I use really thin coats on the box,till it looks and feels right. if the box is painted I usually just put a couple coats of krylon clear Gloss to help protect the stickers and avoid scratches to the paint. I dont use alot of spray because of overspray loss(i'm trying to save a penny). And it kicks up more fumes.