These comments are from a “newbie". I am trying to get satisfactory volume from a rod piezo pickup inserted in the bridge of a licence plate CBG. The bridge is the outer shell of a barrel bolt. I have the piezo just lying in the channel; I get no where the volume as I get with a disc piezo placed within the sound box. Should the rod be fixed in the channel with something like a two pot epoxy?

Also I seem to get better results with disc piezo's when I have them connected straight thru, i.e. no volume or tone pot. The above is based on very few observations

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Rod piezos have to have good solid contact with the strings and the bridge. On a recent build, I made sure that the channel I filed under the bridge allowed for SOLID contact with the soundboard. The volume is good, though I too feel that two piezo discs wired in parallel sound louder.

On my custom rod piezo bridges the rod sets on the lid but the slot is the exact width of the rod so it can`t wobble. I use only hand fit bone saddles on mine to give it the best sound possible. Nothing is glued in, the rod and saddle are both loose fit. I`ve sold alot of these custom rod bridges. The sound is alot better  with no feedback like the disc. The saddle has to make a solid contact with the rod to work properly.Custom rod piezo bridge

You make some nice stuff Randy!

Thx...been doin it for many many years. Here`s a batch of rod piezo bridges for one of my repeat cusomers, the ones on the left are for guitars the right ones for his bass models. All have hand fitted bone saddles.

they look good enough to eat...:)

J, I just gotta agree!

lol ...your post made me grin!


I originally made the same mistake. As Randy has said, you need to have direct contact with the rod in the bridge so you transfer the sound/vibration of the strings directly to the rod.

Seems everyone has pointed out that the piezo must be firmly attached so it will actually pick up the vibration it uses to generate the current.

Yes, pots used in the line will constitute a degree of resistance and reduce the current generated.

You might try one of the little pre amps...  some come with three band EQ's and even tuners!



Thank you all. Now I will epoxy the rod in the channel and have it straight thru to the jack. All I have to do then is figure out and learn what a preamp is.

Here's a pretty nice (methinks) pre-amp setup that could be dandy for a CBG.

There's plenty of 'em cheaper, without the tuner bit...  and some without the EQ, also...

and I don't mean to be pushing evilbay when Ben probably sells a similar thing that has been proven to work well with CBG's.



On my basic model rod piezo bridge the rod sets on the lid of the box. I make up the bridge sides so the rod sits snug in the slot. A good trick is to use an 1/8" thick piece of wood when gluing up the bridge pieces, once the bridge is ready to be sanded just slid the 1/8" piece of wood out of the slot. The rod is exactly 1/8" wide so the slot will be exact. This helps when fitting the saddle in, as with the rod you want the saddle to be snug but not tight! to maintain a great overall contact with the rod length.

Just wondering Randy, Do you ever cut the rods down to size (for say a 3 stringer), or leave them complete & just shorten the bone etc piece to match the number of strings?


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