Hi guys,

Working on my first build. Will be a slide at 25.5" , dual piezo pickups, basic poplar neck and following Del's basic build.

I watched Del videos and I see he uses a lot of Home Depot and Lowes yard sticks for raised fret boards. But the ones that I see from those stores are all a bit narrower than the 1.5" width of the neck. 


  1. Any idea how is he dealing with the less than 1.5" width?
  2. If first build is a slide should I just keep the surface of the neck even with the top of the box as I will have a piezos and not a coil pickup? Or is there benefit to cutting notch below lid to raise the neck a bit?


Jim / Codog

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Follow up question.....for the nut, again for a slide, was going to go simple with a bolt but Del and others saying Zero Nut is the way to go. But maybe those comments are more for fretted.

Hi Jim, in my experience a higher bridge gives better volume, and leaves room to adjust action heights if need be, and a better break angle off the back of the bridge. Raising the fingerboard will raise the bridge height. A zero fret may put the strings too low at the first few frets for clean slide work, unless you use a larger fret for the zero fret.

My 3 string necks are 1.25" wide and I find it fine and easy playable. 

Hope this helps


Thanks Taffy. My basic understanding is along what you are saying. I have heard that you need to use Jumbo wire for the zero fret if you go that way. I think my first will be a medium size bolt.


Big bolts work fine.

QUESTION  #1-  less than 1.5" width f board is fine for a slider guitar . Actually,  it is even better ,as it avoids  neck knock (slide clunking )  on the edge of the neck .  just center it and that  lil space from the edge is actually helpful  and  more forgiving  to play slide  with .

QUESTION #2 Neck can be flush with  in your situation .  As long as your strumming area is high enough to avoid pick scrape and dig.  (easily fixed  with a slightly  higher  bridge ) . depending on your design. it may warrant a raised  f board  to compliment it.

Hope that helps

I unfortunately got a little obsessed with trying to use actual yardsticks. The only one I ever completed with a yardstick ended up being a diddley bow, although a 2 sting (guitar or bass) would work well- I'm a complete beginner player and don't like leaving the outer strings close to the edges- 4 strings is out. Almost all commercial yardsticks are less than 1.5 wide, the ones I use are 1 3/8 inches. A lot of online instructions for CBG's are based on 1.5 width which is regrettable. I don't have a buzz saw and splitting yardstick lengthwise (even just 25.5 inches) creates lots of chances for mistakes. You're almost better off recreating yardstick markings yourself, or getting a decal on a blank. Standard yardsticks are also much thicker than fretboards, but too thin for the entire neck without stacking three or more, and that gets awkward. I've thought of adding one "sideways" to get just a bit more fretboard space widthwise, but again, it involves cutting a yardstick lengthwise.

You can get antique yardsticks on ebay, but all the ones I've seen are still less than 1.5 wide. I've also picked up free yardsticks that weren't perfectly straight, check them before using!

I don't know what you're woodworking skills or tools are like, but if you can get or cut a half or quarter inch stick of wood 26 inches long or longer, I think that would be ideal, or spend the money on CBGitty's yardstick fretboards. They are (by comparison) expensive but using actual yardsticks can be a lot more aggravating than it first appears.

Thanks for the reply. Ya I am not sure what Del is using and will reach out to him. I just decided to do my 1st build as a slide and think the ,1.5 inch Home Depot stick will be ok.  For future builds I bought the fret blanks for 7-8 bucks. I did find a nice mini table saw on Amazon for $95 that looks perfect if you don't have the space. Del uses a similar one he bought at Harbor Freight. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHLQYXN/?coliid=I2ZAPZ53QSAAWZ&col...

Im tight on space so it might be all I need.  My woodworking skills are medium. I work on vintage hickory shafted golf clubs. I don't see anything too difficult as long as i don't need a to plane wood. 

I just started learning 6 string a few weeks ago, but am ready to put that to the side and jump in deep on 3 string as soon as I get build #1 done. If I like it like i think I will....I will pick up 6 string later. Have a lot of friends that are serious 6 string players.

Where are you getting your info for learning to play?   

Splitting the neck lengthwise is called “ripping” the board.  A Depot or Lowe’s or lumberyard will do this for free when buying their product.

Here's a yardstick fingerboard with 4 strings.


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