Is a 2 degree offset required when attaching the neck to the body to compensate for string tension?

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I tried a couple of necks with a bit of an angle. Not sure what the degree is.

I can see a differance in the tension and you can do a lot with different bridges too.

Thanks for the answer.  I have made a number of Ukuleles and never applied the offset and I now realize that is why I have such a high action.

Not necessarily, depends on neck stiffness, bridge height, what type of action you prefer, etc. I did a 2 degree offset on a ukulele build over Christmas, not so much to handle the tension as to help set up a low action height. Worked well.

Thanks MadGomer, I too am not overly concerned about the tension on a three string, but my next build will be a four string.  Perhaps I might put in a stiffener as well as a 2 degree offset.  Thanks again for your input.

what wood are you using for the neck?  any good hardwood should handle the tension of 3&4 strings ... popular excepted....

Wichita.

I totally agree.  I built 9  4 strings about 3 years ago using Oak or Maple necks.  no problem.   I always doubled up for the last few inches of the neck and into the box.

Gary

Setting the neck down 3 degrees allows you to use a higher bridge increasing the break angle of the strings over the saddle.This gives a greater downforce improving the volume

Thanks Michael.  I understand, I have inserted a neck stiffener utilizing a shelf standard routed into the neck and epoxied in.  I then put in a maple filler into the shelf standard bringing it up level with the top of the neck.  The fingerboard is glued over the top.  Coming along nicely.

Thomas:

I always try for about 2 degree neck drop.  Bridge height is easily adjustable with sandpaper/or shims.

I put in around double that when building, and it comes out about right when strung and tuned.  I am building

mostly concert ukes now, so the neck is bolted on rather than neck through.

Did you get your tailpiece sorted out on the hand drum 6 string?  I am messing with banjo ukes and had a situation where I needed a tailpiece and had a 30 minute time limit to design and build it.  I made it of hardwood pieces put together with dowell.  It worked really slick, with the open back it is totally adjustable around the tail end for alignment and it is removable, as only string tension holds it in place.  The stops inside the body are connected to the upright pieces with dowels also.  drilled and glued.  The head is PET 1 recycled plastic, shrunk with a heat gun.  

Thank you all good buddies.  I solved the neck problem by doing what I usually do.  On the six string, I am routing in a 3/8" groove and epoxying it in to the neck.  The 3/8" allthread will extend to the tailpiece with nuts and washers inside the hoop to tighten the hoop to the neck and a acorn nut to hold on the brass tailpiece on to the allthread.  The hoop will be further secured to the hoop by another screw into the neck through the hoop to stop twisting of the neck.  I have made a transition block from the neck to the hoop so that I could have a 2 to 3 degree offset and not run the risk of ruining the neck trying to make a circular offset to the hoop.  Hopefully when it is finished, I will be able to post a picture.

Thanks again for all your constructive comments.

Tom

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