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What finish should I use on box with both paper and wood?

Posted by Fitzhugh on September 11, 2010 at 2:46pm in Building Secrets, Tips, Advice, Discussion
I've got a guitar built on an arturo fuente box, one with only one side papered (the top, now the back) and nice paper trim along all the edges. Any suggestions on what kind of finish would best seal the paper so that it can survive at least some abuse?

I've already made the guitar but don't mind taping off the neck and reso cone, finishing the neck with something else, etc.

Thanks!

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Replies

  • Mark Bliss October 7, 2010 at 1:53am
    I have some questions too similar to start a new thread. The tips provided answer some, at least partially. But I was wondering about tips to protect the look of vintage somewhat worn boxes, as well as how to create a vintage look with new boxes.
    And going in the other direction, how to remove paper, labels and such to get that wood only finished look?
  • Fitzhugh September 21, 2010 at 1:25pm
    Sorry, I've was unclear again. I wasn't suggesting using them as a sealer. I was saying my mention of spray sealers was probably not good since they were prevent the glues from causing smearing, not oil finishes, polyurethane etc. In other words, don't listen to me :) I started this thread because I don't know what I'm doing.
  • Diane in Chicago September 21, 2010 at 11:28am
    I am very leery of using white glue or Mod Podge as a sealant in any form. I use it with children's art projects all the time (i'm a public school art teacher.) A significant drawback is that it will actually reabsorb moisture from the air and turn white again. So if you will ever encounter humidity in any quantity, you're in trouble. Also it does not actually bond with the paper and can easily start to peel up, like skin after a good sunburning.

    And it tends to remain slightly tacky so will accumulate dust and grime.

    High end bookbinding glue might be a better bet, but I have not yet tried it. My daughter has a stash, perhaps I'll raid that and report back someday.

    Fitzhugh said:
    In my very limited experience I cut first and finish last other than attaching neck and hardware, but others might know better.

    No surprise you're ahead of me on this one Diane. I found mention of it on some decoupage art forum when looking for no-smear solutions but haven't tried it myself. Come to think of it, they were using it as a sealer before using white glue or similar to glue the paper down and not before a nice finish like we're after. Oops.
  • Manic8-Ball September 21, 2010 at 10:31am
    Ok I'm thinking of doing a couple of thin coats of Clear Krylon then cuttings holes for the pickups and pots then others finale coat the seal it all up.
  • Fitzhugh September 20, 2010 at 7:11pm
    In my very limited experience I cut first and finish last other than attaching neck and hardware, but others might know better.

    No surprise you're ahead of me on this one Diane. I found mention of it on some decoupage art forum when looking for no-smear solutions but haven't tried it myself. Come to think of it, they were using it as a sealer before using white glue or similar to glue the paper down and not before a nice finish like we're after. Oops.
  • Diane in Chicago September 20, 2010 at 6:54pm
    If you are having just holes like Fs or decorative circles, you'd want to cut and sand them first, and then treat your wood. But if you are going to have escutcheons or other froufrou on the holes, I don't think it matters.

    Manic8-Ball said:
    Do you cut the holes and stuff in the box before or after you spray it with a clear coat??
  • Manic8-Ball September 20, 2010 at 6:43pm
    Do you cut the holes and stuff in the box before or after you spray it with a clear coat??
  • Diane in Chicago September 20, 2010 at 5:44pm
    I don't know if the fixative is really non -permeable. I find it only does a fair job of protecting artwork, and tends to spit coming from the spray can -- making dark marks on my pastel drawings. grrr. Test first in an inconspicuous location, as the label always says!
  • Fitzhugh September 20, 2010 at 4:58pm
    I meant just mask and spray the tax stamp with fixer before using tru-oil or whatever else might mess up the stamp. In case you're not familiar with it, it just makes a thin covering, used to stabilize art like pencil or pastel drawings.

    I most certainly was not saying you should hair spray your creations :)

    I've got my favorite neck yet with tung oil finish hanging and drying right now (again, not real tung oil but a wipe on varnish with TUNG OIL on the label to fool fools like me), turning out well, and that last coat about half an hour ago worked out much better using Diane's brown paper approach.

    fitzhugh-cbgneck

    fitzhugh-cbgneck2


    I've got a scrap with 2nd coat of low gloss wipe on poly drying, think I'll use it for the neck of the gift for kid guitar since I gather is is tough. I did use spray on the body for that one, wouldn't use it again.

    Off topic but have to show it off because I'm happy with it: tung oil is also drying on stand for a horse sculpture/doll. It gets mailed as soon as the stand drys - I made the horse, um, unicorn, gf made doll)

    fitzhugh-doll

  • Diane in Chicago September 20, 2010 at 2:40pm
    I think I am going to try some brush on poly in matte finish, put on with a fairly dry sponge brush. But I'll test on a scrap box first. The sponge brush will let you control where the poly is going to go, and frankly I hate aerosol anything.

    Scotty C. said:
    Diane in Chicago said:
    Okay, folks, TruOil is my new favorite for pretty much anything and everything. Nice rich color, does not mess with a coated label (but you need to be tidy going around those tax stamp ones), dries fast and is neither glossy nor flat.
    So I imagine the TruOil is no good for the tax stamps? Any idea what kind of finish would work well with those thinner stamp/stickers?
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