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  • Hi, what I would suggest is to put the bridge saddle at the recommended scale length area, string up the instrument,tune it and plot the best position by moving the bridge back and forth under the strings, while referencing the pitch of the strings against a digital tuner.

    Its not only the mass of the different strings that effect intonation but their different heights above the frets means they stretch at different rates, and this has to be compensated for also.

    When the two outside strings are intonated, I normally adjust the inside strings by filing the saddle and checking the intonation as for the outside strings. I suspect that the compensated saddle you have would put you in the ball park area but fine tuning may be required.

    When you have it sorted place tape at the bridge location, remove the strings and glue to bridge on when ready.

    Taff

  • I really do appreciate all of you being there and providing fast replies and helpful information. Just one of the reasons I love all my Nation friends.

  • Wow, thanks everyone. I sometimes make things more complicated than they have to be! JL, your answer makes perfect sense and the thing is, I know that already! What was confusing me is the "re-entrant" tuning thing where you have a thin sting on top  instead of the thickest string. 

    Wayfinder, the saddle is the same height all the way across, only the angle of the peaks are different, but thanks for confirming what "Oily " said, flip it.       

    So the SECOND photo I posted is the correct orientation and "Oily " was right all along!!

    And Clark thanks for the link, that is handy!

    • Yep, Oily was right, I should remember to not reply when I am tired... I was bass-ackwards on this one...
  • Simple rule, thicker strings need more compensation (more away).

  • Also, on this same subject, should the whole bridge saddle assembly also be compensated? ie 15" plus 1/16" or does that only apply to non compensated saddles? Wow, a floating bridge is so much easier!

    • Stew-Mac has a calculator for figuring it out for guitar but, if you watch the video on the page linked below, Dan Erlewine has a neat "stone age" device that he clamps on to temporarily make the fixed bridge into a floating one so as to sort it all out...

      http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Bridges_and_Tailpiec...

      I've been thinking about designing my own to work on CBGs/CBUs.

    •  I guess that would be 15" MINUS 1/16" ?

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