I finished my first (4 string) CBG and it seems to have gone pretty well. I strung it up and tuned it to open G, with strings I got from Gitty for open G/standard. I figured out there are 2 open G's, and have it tuned to the correct one: DGBD. So, here is the issue. It sounds great strummed open, but finger any fret on any string and I can't get it to hit on the right note. I've checked the scale length and the position of the 12th fret multiple times, and they're spot on at 24" and 12" respectively. I've also moved the bridge in both directions, a little at a time and retuned. Initially, I thought I had the strings too high and was stretching them too much when fingering against the fret. I was able to drop the bridge about 2mm, and the slots in the nut about 1.5mm, and it's easier to press the string to the fret, but I still have the same issue. Is it possible the strings are crapped out from being stretched/adjusted too much? Are these strings from Gitty not ideal, since they seem to be a "one size fits both"? I realize the high string is only one full note difference, D instead of E, so it shouldn't be too far off--and that has no bearing n the other 3 strings. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks, Brad

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  • Steel strings are a lot stronger than you think, the middle 4 on a standard electric guitar will work best on a CBG as it is best not to have them too tight and will over strain the neck, also try GDGb tuning.

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/group/four-string-cigar-box-guitars
    • Thanks,

      That GDGB tuning was what I wanted, but I ordered these, not knowing there were more than one "open Gs". I was told my B string wouldn't like being stretched to the high G. It doesn't matter, these just developed a buzz at the tail end, due to the twisted end loosening up from repeatedly fooling with it. I have a standard set of 6 strings here that I'll use for that tuning.

      And, thanks--I joined that group.

      Brad

      •  You might be getting the buzz from the nut slots they are very deep , I'd file them down so that the string sits half in out half out of the nut slot .

        • That's good advice...9 times out of 10 the buzz is coming from the nut. If it buzzes when fretted, it could be the bridge or the string hitting a fret. When you file out your nut slots, make a slope that goes back towards the headstock, so the string is just resting on one small surface at the very point where the nut joins the fretboard. If the string is in contact with the full 6mm (or whatever) of the depth of the nut it's very likely to buzz.
          •  Thanks Richey I forgot to add that point , it might also something to do with your tuning problem if the string is sitting in the middle of the nut it'll mean your scale length is out a bit , so a Richey said the break point of the string over the nut needs to be on the face of the nut exactly the same as the bridge saddle .

            • Thanks Richey and Capo.

              I had taken note to be sure the strings were coming right off the "scale" side, so that the scale measurement starts precisely at the nut. And, when I got up this morning I strung up new strings to tune it to GBGD, and still had the buzz--I figured out exactly what you're describing. The slots are deep and straight, without enough taper biased towards the tuning pegs.

              Easy enough fix--I got lazy and just cut those deeper to see if I could address the tuning issue. Now I'll measure it all up and make a new, lower nut that will allow me to remove the hokey shim.

              Thanks everyone, for the feedback. It's given me a clearer understanding of the what/how/why of guitar set-up, and a basis for trouble shooting future issues.

              Spent some time making noise this morning...
              306277187?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

              Thanks, Brad

              • Thats what I like to hear Brad, glad you've got it sorted, now have fun playing it, it's a beauty!
  • As far as which note you should have at each fret- each string should start at the note you have it tuned too and then work its way up the scale until you get to the 12th fret where it all starts over an octave higher.  So your G for instance will start open at G, 1st fret G#, 2nd fret A, 3rd fret A #, 4th B, 5th C, 6th C#, 7th D, 8th D#, 9th E, 10th F, 11th F#, 12 G.  Did you use a fret spacing calculator when you set the frets?

    • Dan,

      Thanks for teaching me something. I used the scale template from Gitty. I dropped the fret board right next to it and transferred the fret locations over with a square.

      Brad
      • All fixed now--dropped the strings lower at the nut and bridge. Not perfect, but good enough. notes have stabilized to just barely higher than what they should be. I'll adjust again, next time I have to take stuff apart--in the meantime, it's good enough to play, or to try to play as the case may be.

        Thanks, Brad

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