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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on January 28, 2016 at 8:08am

You don't adjust the intonation at the nut, unless you are going to use something like a compensated Earvana or Feiten System nut. The whole idea of a zero fret is that it's an easy way to achieve a low action at the bottom of the fretboard, and it's easier to make a guitar that way rather than having to accurately cut string slots in a regular nut. With a zero fret, the nut acts only as a string spacing guide, so you need make the slots somewhat deeper then the height of the zero fret, in order to make sure the strings sit nice and firm onto the zero fret.

With a conventional nut, if the action at the nut is overly high, then fretting the guitar will cause the string to pull sharp, but on a properly set-up guitar, this isn't usually a major problem. Using a zero fret can help avoid this problem, automatically setting a nice low action and having the bonus of being less fiddly to install.

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Permalink Reply by David McQueen on January 28, 2016 at 10:39am

Think of it this way. The conventional nut does three things. First, it sets one end of the scale, the saddle setting the other end. Second it sets the string height at the neck end. Third, it spaces the strings at the neck end. Zero fret splits these functions in two. The fret itself sets the string height and scale length and the slotted string guide sets the string spacing. It makes things simpler.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on January 28, 2016 at 1:06pm

I'm probably reaching beyond my knowledge here,but a few thoughts.Zero fret will most likely reduce the need for compensation at nut end to the minimum reasonable level,leaving you with only the saddle to mess with to get pretty good results,beyond that you probably need to start angling frets,but then with a string change your stumped again.I'm really just thinking out loud here,so any comments,yay or nay appreciated

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on January 28, 2016 at 10:29pm

Still thinking,but now i've added drinking,given all the above we should be pretty close,the next variable is string tension,if all strings were in equal tension[lets say 18 lb] to reach the desired open note,theoretically you should have a straight bridge,problem now being,when you fret the octave,[or any fret],although all the strings bend the same amount,due to gauge differences,there's a variation in added tension,which on a low action i'd have thought minimal.In the case of a 3 stringer,would setting the bridge to note,both open and the octave on the middle string,then tune the outer strings to the octave only be a better compromise?  B.T W for a good blog on string tension Harrison Withers did a fair deal a couple of years ago,and should be searcheable

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on January 29, 2016 at 3:10am

Hi Wayfinder.

String tension is not something I obsess over, but it was interesting to check it out from time to time to get a "feel" for normal tension ranges.

This web site String Tension Calculator makes checking tension pretty much a no-brainer.

I also like to use it when I'm planning to do something out-of-the-box like putting a wound 0.022" high G on my three stringer (and yes, it does have a good bit of tension, but sounds great).

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on January 29, 2016 at 3:18am

Have to admit,i'm not overly fascinated with string tensions,but if we're discussing zero frets,angled bridges,action height and intonation,but ignore string tension,it's sort of like playing baseball with a hockey puk

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Permalink Reply by Bama Hound on January 29, 2016 at 6:14am

http://hcw3.com/wordpress/?p=145

That is the blog post for fret placement that Harrison Withers had. I say had because I get a 404 error. Post not found. I see what is happening with the zero fret thanks to Wayfinder,Tom T, Chickenbone John,yourself and others.I am getting a low profile on my strings using the method I am using so I will prolly stick with what is working, using the old idea of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".Thanks to all that replied. BH

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on January 29, 2016 at 1:33am

Hello Bama Hound.

When I first heard about zero frets I didn't think much of it. I couldn't see any big advantages and having ultra low action at the first fret didn't sound like a good combination for slide work. Slowly, I began to understand some of the big advantages of this design. But, in a slightly different configuration.

Instead of installing a fret at the zero position, I used a piece or round "music wire".

This offered several advantages.

First: Music wire is available in a number of different diameters, so I can set the action exactly where I want or I can change the action height without a lot of hassle.

Second: If I need to make small intonation adjustments, I can turn the wire at an angle until I get it right.

Once I have things adjusted like I want, I file a very shallow groove in the finger board to position the zero pin.

I've used this system on a number of guitars over the past year and like the flexibility and adjust-ability it offers.

So, now you have one more option to confuse things.

Good luck.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on January 29, 2016 at 1:48am

Interesting Tom,in your pic it appears the nut is set rearward on the bottom string,much like a bridge might be set,is that a working example,or am i reading it wrong?

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Permalink Reply by Tom T on January 29, 2016 at 2:06am

The bridge (string guide at this point) is loose in this photo. I tapped it against the fret board with a touch of glue after I saw the photo. It is intended to be mounted the same as any normal nut (i.e. square against the end of the fret board).

Sorry for the confusion. That's what I get when I shoot photos before my third cup of coffee.

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Permalink Reply by Primitive Acoustics on January 29, 2016 at 4:05am

I usually use finish nails for my zero frets when building with medium height frets and the action has been very close every time.

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