Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by ken farmer on October 7, 2010 at 3:01pm

Diane,

You've always got great insights - I like the ability to easily modify or fix a build.

I like tru-oil on oak (since it fills in the pores and leaves it feeling smooth) and I like it for the water-resistant finish. And I usually apply it after the fretting. Though I try not to get it too sloppy - don't want to soften the wood around the frets.

I do intend to check out raw linseed oil for the fretboards though.

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Permalink Reply by Richard Markham on October 7, 2010 at 3:26pm

Being new to CBG's building I try to include skills I have learned from some great teachers . Years ago my , Father in Law , who owned a small mill and was a "Master" furniture builder brought up the wood finish topic . For his customers he would apply any finish they desired . Be it "poly", "nitro cell" , ect,.. But for his personal projects , he would "allways" use tung oil . As Diane mentions , the tung oil is very easy for "touch ups" is correct . I own a 1920's ? (name?), no dots , parlor guitar , bought at least 25 years ago for 5 dollars , paint stripped , no tuning keys , 100% maple ! 0000 steel wool , "Tung Oil" and tuners brought my "baby" back to life . And with no stains the wood is beautifull . A little lemon oil now and then and if I get a "rub through" , Tung oil . Regardless , whatever works for each person is probably the route to go . That's the "beauty" of CBG's . No two are alike . Being more of a hobby for me , the extra time/effort in using Tung Oil is very satisfying . The main thing is "Do what you love , love what you do" !!!

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Permalink Reply by Mungo Park on October 7, 2010 at 3:55pm

Nice work, you really made the grain in that piece of wood sing, what a nice job. So may pieces of wood fall prey to the dreaded stain. I love to see a piece of wood with its natural beauty brought out.
Cheers Ron.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on October 7, 2010 at 4:03pm

That's true about the oak, now that it is pointed out to me. The grain on the oak of one of these ukes that were in this test batch turned out very nice with the Tru-Oil.

I'd consider giving it another go after all the frets are in, especially if i was using oak and only oak.



ken farmer said:

Diane,

You've always got great insights - I like the ability to easily modify or fix a build.

I like tru-oil on oak (since it fills in the pores and leaves it feeling smooth) and I like it for the water-resistant finish. And I usually apply it after the fretting. Though I try not to get it too sloppy - don't want to soften the wood around the frets.

I do intend to check out raw linseed oil for the fretboards though.

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Permalink Reply by Don Thompson on October 8, 2010 at 12:58am

I strongly DO NOT recommend linseed oil, boiled (not really boiled) or unboiled. I have made my own finish using varnish and linseed oil, however not for fingerboards. It takes for ever, if ever to dry. Do some research on linseed oil, it's simply not suitable for this purpose.
Been there, done that, Don





ken farmer said:

Diane,

You've always got great insights - I like the ability to easily modify or fix a build.

I like tru-oil on oak (since it fills in the pores and leaves it feeling smooth) and I like it for the water-resistant finish. And I usually apply it after the fretting. Though I try not to get it too sloppy - don't want to soften the wood around the frets.

I do intend to check out raw linseed oil for the fretboards though.

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Permalink Reply by ken farmer on October 8, 2010 at 1:40am

Don,

There's a lot of contradictory information on oils for the fretboard: Godin recommends lemon oil - though most say that's just a cleaner, not a conditioner. Others recommend tung or danish oil. Others recommend raw linseed - because it doesn't dry and keeps the fretboard conditioned. Just use it very sparingly.

Sigh. This is why I wanted to try it on my CBGs before my expensive guitars. What do you recommend?

Thanks!



Don Thompson said:

I strongly DO NOT recommend linseed oil, boiled (not really boiled) or unboiled. I have made my own finish using varnish and linseed oil, however not for fingerboards. It takes for ever, if ever to dry. Do some research on linseed oil, it's simply not suitable for this purpose.
Been there, done that, Don





ken farmer said:

Diane,

You've always got great insights - I like the ability to easily modify or fix a build.

I like tru-oil on oak (since it fills in the pores and leaves it feeling smooth) and I like it for the water-resistant finish. And I usually apply it after the fretting. Though I try not to get it too sloppy - don't want to soften the wood around the frets.

I do intend to check out raw linseed oil for the fretboards though.

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Permalink Reply by Don Thompson on October 8, 2010 at 8:16am

My post was directed solely at linseed oil and linseed only. I did not mention any other oil to avoid.
Don




ken farmer said:

Don,

There's a lot of contradictory information on oils for the fretboard: Godin recommends lemon oil - though most say that's just a cleaner, not a conditioner. Others recommend tung or danish oil. Others recommend raw linseed - because it doesn't dry and keeps the fretboard conditioned. Just use it very sparingly.

Sigh. This is why I wanted to try it on my CBGs before my expensive guitars. What do you recommend?

Thanks!



Don Thompson said:

I strongly DO NOT recommend linseed oil, boiled (not really boiled) or unboiled. I have made my own finish using varnish and linseed oil, however not for fingerboards. It takes for ever, if ever to dry. Do some research on linseed oil, it's simply not suitable for this purpose.
Been there, done that, Don





ken farmer said:

Diane,

You've always got great insights - I like the ability to easily modify or fix a build.

I like tru-oil on oak (since it fills in the pores and leaves it feeling smooth) and I like it for the water-resistant finish. And I usually apply it after the fretting. Though I try not to get it too sloppy - don't want to soften the wood around the frets.

I do intend to check out raw linseed oil for the fretboards though.

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Permalink Reply by Craig Cox on October 8, 2010 at 9:42am

For me, there's three choices: tung oil, tung oil, and tung oil. I use it for boxes, necks, and fretboards. usually 3-4 coats, which means 3-4 days. warms the wood, brings out the grain (subtly), conditions, protects, looks great, even smells good! Just be sure to get the real stuff (like Minwax) as there are imitations out there.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on October 8, 2010 at 2:42pm

The very kind friend who gifted me this Tru-Oil is in no way responsible for the fact I put the oil on BEFORE the frets went in. It would seem I am the only one who does this. Everyone else finishes afterwards, it appears.

Live and learn. Putting it on after fretting solves the first two problems.

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on October 9, 2010 at 2:04am

Yes, but but this little set all had tapered necks.

Naz Nomad said:

Diane in Chicago said:

I put the oil on BEFORE the frets went in. It would seem I am the only one who does this. Everyone else finishes afterwards, it appears.

Is it feasible to Tru-Oil the unslotted fretboard (easier than between frets, surely?) and slot it afterwards? This is either a valid question and/or me being a complete numbnut, lol.

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