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  • Should drill ok, centre punch the hole positions and use a HSS twist drill.

    Drill one bowl first then "copy drill" the second set of holes through the first set so they line up

  • More pics

    image.jpg

    • Ok, that pic is what I was trying to describe. Now round off the end of the eck at the tail end so that it fits snugly up against the bowl, as far back as you can get it.. A rasp or even a flat file will get that done in a few minutes. You'll hafta file the round end of the curve on the end of the neck at the circumference of the bowl first, then the curve that fits the curve of the side of the bowl. Then, you can put a screw through that lip on the bowl to hold the neck to the bowl at the side hole end, too. Then you won't have to build up a heel out of additional wood.
      • Ron ,
        You think the guitar bowl should ultimately face up or down ..the neck /wood pretty much would block the sound hole ?
        • I don't think it will matter much, once you get the two bowls together. I think it's gonna be loud.
      • Sounds good. Everytime I place that wood on the bowl I say no way I can carve that. ..I'll give it a try
        • Jon,

          You can. Take it slow. Carve the first curve, the one that matches the bowl circumference. Measure from the center of the hole to the circumference, where the lip starts. Get a pencil tied to a piece of string, the same length as the radius you just measured. Transfer that radius length from the end of the neck to a point in the center of the neck. Stick the push pin in there, nailing the free end of the string down with it at that point. Stretch the string to the end of the neck, draw the curve on the end of they neck. Carve to fit. Then eyeball the other curve, try to draw it on the side of the neck wood. Then carve, file, sand that down. Viola.
          • Ron ,
            If I were to get wood flush after the flat part of the stovetop with a file or cutting ..which I'm stumped..
            the tailpiece would be the only support (unless I made a heel somewhere)
            I am not getting it despite your explanation. I kinda understand the idea of shaping the wood to fit the curve but major brain block which way to shape it..then as I said what else would support the neck?
            • Ok, had another think about this. Attach it just like you have in your last pic. Forget carving, blah blah blah. Just screw it in from the end, just like you got it; coupla screws should hold it. Put one screw through the lip of the stove topper into the neck. You could make this a string-through: drill 3 or 4 holes (depending if you want a 3 or 4 stringer) through the neck, and run your strings through them, like a through-body Strat. String through the bottom, have em come out through the top of the neck, then through 3 or 4 holes drilled into the stove topper just behind the center hole. Get a file and make those ragged hole edges smooooth, because your strings are gonna bend over them. Get a hex head bolt with a nut, long enough to span across the center hole: that's your bridge. You'll also hafta add a fretboard to the neck, to get it up at approximately the height of your bridge; otherwise, your strings may hit the edge of the bowl. Does that make sense? Also go get some smallish bits that caN penetrate steel, made for metal work. Drill holes all around the lips of both bowls, about 1" apart. Lace it together with picture hanging wire. Pull it tight, and tie it off neatly. Will draw some diagrams tomorrow and post.
          • I could then attach the wood here and make the tailpiece like this and reinforce... I like your idea going further back but can't figure out per you description see pic here

            In this pic the flat part of the stove top would be attached via the tailpiece and screw??? Thoughts...
            Wish I could do what you described...need more of a visual . Thank you

            image.jpg

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