If you can take the top off, remove the bracing and simply reduce the thickness with a hand plane. It's quick, clean and accurate - no fancy power tools needed, just a good sharp blade. Using a router just makes the job more complicated and it's the wrong tool for the job. Sorry, but it really bugs me when people suggest power tools instead of more appropriate hand tools for a simple job like this.
I would use a trim router harbor freight has one for 30.00 pre drill your depth and go crazy on that lid. clean up wit a sharp chisel or razor knife sand if needed
Sharp chisel and tap with a light hammer.
That will work. Great job with the jig.
Hi, did you get a more responsive top from this exercise as you wanted? Just one comment I would make. I did not realise you would be removing wood from the inside of the top leaving bracing in place, my comments were relating to thinning the whole top from the outside or inside surface, but you would have lost the logo.
My comment/advice is, for those who choose this method, is to think about removing the bracing and thinning the whole top and then replacing with same size or modified bracing that would further enhance the response of the top. I admire your dedication to achieving better sound, but that little extra work removing bracing may provide an even better outcome. Well done anyway.
We'll see how it turns out. I'm waiting for the new fret material now.
I did want to leave the top intact, both for the looks and to leave the action unaffected. If I cut away the outside, I'd have had to construct a new bridge.
Also, those braces were glued on with Titebond III, a permanent glue. I didn't want to risk damaging the top.