So I put a fret where the nut would have gone normally. I tested with a string on for intonation etc...all good. Now how do I keep the strings in place just after the (fret/nut)? Hence the 0 fret. I want to add a regular looking nut and file grooves to keep the strings in place.
My big question here is how do I keep the nut spacer from acting like a nut ( wont it hit the spacer as the frets are all the same size?)instead of a string tree or more a spacer sorta speak. Does the nut piece (being used as a spacer) go lower (via filing or placement) than the 0 fret? Higher? I don't get it I don't wanna have the nut be the nut. Some basic concept I am missing here. So once again so far the nut is regular fret. I have a bit of space just after that fret (headstock side) where I want to keep the strings going straighter to their respective tuning pegs. I wanted to use a nut for a string spacer but have it NOT function like the nut of the guitar.
Should the grooves filed be lower than the nut(the 0 fret?)
Thanks and sorry if I repeated myself here ...also how far away should the string spacer be away from the fret? Does it matter?
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Hi, Just one last thing that I consider and it is the height of the strings over the first fret. For my slide guitars and my style of playing, I prefer a slightly higher action there. It could depend on the stiffness of the strings, playing style and weight of the slide as to how high/low I set first fret action, so as to eliminate too much string to fret noise/rattle.
I remember on my early acoustic guitars back in the day, making bone nuts with a bone zero fret incorporated in it. Too much work but a good talking point.
Well my using a fret as a nut spacer did NOT go well.
Either I have not filed the fret as a spacer low enough or something else is wrong. I wanted to use a fret as a spacer because I didn't want the electric strings to grab into the wood...but now I have to remove the fret (spacer) or really go at it ...if I go deeper I may get buzzing...if I remove the fret completely I'll have a fret line...after it's been stained and ting oiled in pretty darn thick...
I shoulda listen and just let the strings bite into the wood. I'll take a pic. Any suggestions appreciated.
Taffy Evans > Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal MusicJune 19, 2016 at 12:58am
Hi Jon, I would suggest removing the fret, saw through the fret slot so it becomes the end of the fingerboard and in its place fit a "spacer nut" made out of bone, brass, plastic or even a hardwood like ebony or maple. Violins etc. have wood nuts.
The Phrygian Kid > Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal MusicJune 19, 2016 at 5:51am
It can definitely be done with a '-1 fret' - I've probably done 100 like that. But you need enough angle pulling the strings down into those slots. Try putting as many wraps on the tuner post as it takes to bring the string right down to the bottom (this is good practice anyways..)
Another thing you might consider for future ones - if you design the head carefully to pull each string straight to each post, and angle the head down sufficiently - then you won't need a nut at all
Taffy Evans > The Phrygian KidJune 19, 2016 at 7:10pm
Hi again, if you use the fret style spacer I would recommend [as mentioned by Wayfarer] a larger fret so you can cut the slots deeper and help with the break angle over the Zero fret and the pressure down on it, although it will not be much. The angle the strings take from the spacer fret nut to the tuner posts my indicate how deep the slots may need to be or if a spacer nut is needed. You can always use string trees to get a downward angle behind the nut. Cheers Taff
I use scrap oak left over from the fretboard for my string spacer/nut. Yes, slotted below the zero fret (just a steel nail on this cbg - using super jumbo fret wire on recent builds). Just to keep the strings lined up.
Replies
Hi, Just one last thing that I consider and it is the height of the strings over the first fret. For my slide guitars and my style of playing, I prefer a slightly higher action there. It could depend on the stiffness of the strings, playing style and weight of the slide as to how high/low I set first fret action, so as to eliminate too much string to fret noise/rattle.
I remember on my early acoustic guitars back in the day, making bone nuts with a bone zero fret incorporated in it. Too much work but a good talking point.
Cheers Taff
Either I have not filed the fret as a spacer low enough or something else is wrong. I wanted to use a fret as a spacer because I didn't want the electric strings to grab into the wood...but now I have to remove the fret (spacer) or really go at it ...if I go deeper I may get buzzing...if I remove the fret completely I'll have a fret line...after it's been stained and ting oiled in pretty darn thick...
I shoulda listen and just let the strings bite into the wood. I'll take a pic. Any suggestions appreciated.
image.jpeg
Hi Jon, I would suggest removing the fret, saw through the fret slot so it becomes the end of the fingerboard and in its place fit a "spacer nut" made out of bone, brass, plastic or even a hardwood like ebony or maple. Violins etc. have wood nuts.
Cheers Taff
Another thing you might consider for future ones - if you design the head carefully to pull each string straight to each post, and angle the head down sufficiently - then you won't need a nut at all
Hi again, if you use the fret style spacer I would recommend [as mentioned by Wayfarer] a larger fret so you can cut the slots deeper and help with the break angle over the Zero fret and the pressure down on it, although it will not be much. The angle the strings take from the spacer fret nut to the tuner posts my indicate how deep the slots may need to be or if a spacer nut is needed. You can always use string trees to get a downward angle behind the nut. Cheers Taff
I use scrap oak left over from the fretboard for my string spacer/nut. Yes, slotted below the zero fret (just a steel nail on this cbg - using super jumbo fret wire on recent builds). Just to keep the strings lined up.
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