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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 11, 2016 at 6:36pm

That's amazing !!!

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 11, 2016 at 6:40pm

Are those regular size tuners? They look great.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 12, 2016 at 3:09pm

How do you widen the bushing on the inside of the hole?? Also are you going through to the other side of the hole where the tuner peg goes in?

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 12, 2016 at 4:25pm

Thank you....receiver hole sounds right. I think as easy as this seems... a scrap attempt on my part first.

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 12, 2016 at 7:00pm

Very cool! thats a great look there. I'm a little confused there on the diagram as to what the yellow as opposed to green means...is it that the gear needs to face toward the bridge? Sorry if it's totally obvious...

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Permalink Reply by Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal Music on February 13, 2016 at 5:38am

for clarification I meant gear should face towards the nut.technically the gear should always face the nut first then the bridge. Same like like regular mounted gear tuners. I was unclear because your tuner is slightly different type than the economy type ...I'm looking at the pic of your guitar headstock and it shows gear toward nut etc...that what I'm understanding by you diagram...yes?

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on February 12, 2016 at 5:08pm

Some tuners come with the bushings and some not. It would be hard to ream the hole for the bushings, but if you drill the holes tight enough while being loose enough to allow free movement of the peg you won't need the bushings. Example would be a hole that's no more than 1/32nd"/1mm larger than the tuner peg. And lube with petroleum jelly or lithium grease.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on February 13, 2016 at 8:12am

Forgot to mention that tuners that have screw in bushings, you have to drill the smaller hole all the way through, then drill the larger hole to the right depth.

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Permalink Reply by Frank Carr on February 11, 2016 at 7:13pm

I've used them on some pallet wood diddley bows (see my picture page). I drilled the big hole for them using a Forstner bit. The main issue was setting up screws to use as string guides to insure tuning stability and to avoid string buzz.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on February 12, 2016 at 11:36pm

The guitars with a slanted heastock(3x3) to the right angle won't need string retainers to achieve the right break angle over the nut. But, guitars with lower stepped headstocks(like Fender style) will require retainers for the longer/high strings due to the 6 inline tuner setup loosing break angle on the longer/high strings.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on February 12, 2016 at 11:39pm

So if you side mount tuners, it's less likely to need string retainers because of greater break angle. Especially if the headstock is stepped or slanted.

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Permalink Reply by jim on February 12, 2016 at 10:34pm

The straightest line with the string is the best, not just for tuning up but when played the string encounters friction. Even when tuned, when playing, any abrasion can cause string breakage and or drag when tuning.

 

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