Screwed or Glued?

Working on my second CBG, This one is a fretted three-string. I've cut the fret board from some walnut I've been hauling around for over forty years. It's very dry and straight. Should make a good fret board. Just have to cut the slots for the frets and get them installed.

Here's my question. Is there any good reason to not screw the fret board to the neck versus gluing it? The reason for the question is looking ahead to possible newbie mistakes that would require removal and/or replacement of the fret board.

The neck is a nice piece of Red Oak with a 3 degree drop, so bending of the neck shouldn't be a problem and the added strength of a glued 1/4" fret board unnecessary.

The actual fret board ends at the edge of the box, so if it was permanently installed (glued) it wouldn't prevent access to the box electronics, but being a first fret build, I wonder if I should play it safe and attach it with screws.

If there are technical reasons for gluing the fret board that I've overlooked, please educate me before I go and do something I shouldn't.

Thanks for all the help and advice provided in this forum. It is like a fast track training course.

Regards

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Replies

  • There are some luthiers that use white Elmer's glue
    Once glued down I don't really see any problems with it moving
  • On my Amish Harp [ washboard build ] I used screws at the fret markers...the scale length is 25" which worked great for the 4 string dulci  fretboard and the chromatic fretted fretboard.  Their  Interchangeable.       The Amish Harp..final pic`s

    • Thanks Randy.

      I did the same thing on my first build. Brass screws where markers normally go. Interestingly, I've had the fret board off several times for modification as I learn more about CBG design.

  • Fret the board before you glue it on

    • I agree. I build a fretting jig just for this purpose.

  • There's no reason other than the inherent conservatism in guitar builders. Randy's done one (or maybe more) with interchangeable fingerboards that screw in.

    BUT

    dont plan for failure dude. Whatever goes wrong, you can fix it without needing to make preparation or sweating about the possibility beforehand.
    Screw your fingerboard on if you like, you won't be first. :)
    • Thanks for the information. While I never plan for failure (bad karma), I do know that when doing things for the first time, it's easy to get to the end, stand back then go "Ah S_ _ _!"

      That's my thinking here. Also, I was thinking if i wanted to change the scale length, it would be possible.

      Anyway, I appreciate the info.

      Tom T

      • Glue your fret board on with yellow wood glue. If you do need to remove sometime down the line all you need to do is apply some heat and the glue will soften so you can remove the board with a putty knife. If you have already cut the fret slots......no ...you cant change the scale length.

        fretting before or after the board is glued on??   I think it is a matter of personal preference.    When I get a gitter in for a fret job I certainly dont remove the fret board. Its done in place ....bound or unbound

        • Thanks for the reply Mark.

          When I mentioned changing the scale length, I meant with a new fret board (thus the reason for screwing it on).

          I know that the neck will be stronger with a glued fret board, but I've wondered if a screwed on fret board would open up options such as changing out a fretted board for a fret-less board for slide work.

          A good yellow glue such as Titebond II would take a lot of heat on the 1/4" fret board to become pliable again. I always used hide-glue on my clock restoration just for its reverse-ability. Yellow glues don't usually have this characteristic.

          Thanks for your suggestions.

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