At this point, I've built 2 CBGs -- one with a fingerboard and one without. In both cases, I kept the designs relatively simple, and kept the necks (one bolted, the other through-box) as close to zero angle as possible. However, upon completion, both guitars have really high string action as you get closer to the bridge. Are they bowing? Will angling the neck about 5 or 6 degrees downward combat the high string action? A CBG without a fingerboard wouldn't be difficult, but a fingerboard certainly wouldn't sit right on the body...
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
Heh cool. The plans show a middle layer. Can use if you want, but I just do two pieces. Also I have more info about grain direction. I'm kinda particular about that which (I believe) makes the neck stronger still.
This relates to the image you posted underneath the lamination plans, yes? Could you elaborate on what gluing them together in that grain pattern does for the strength? (I'm afraid I'm not very knowledgeable on quartersawn wood...)
Heh cool. The plans show a middle layer. Can use if you want, but I just do two pieces. Also I have more info about grain direction. I'm kinda particular about that which (I believe) makes the neck stronger still.
Also, Wes, for the last 2 weeks, I've been eagerly awaiting the finish of my previous build so I could get to work trying out your laminated neck instructions.
Also, Wes, for the last 2 weeks, I've been eagerly awaiting the finish of my previous build so I could get to work trying out your laminated neck instructions.
Are you making a neck thru deisgn? That is neck goes thru the box?
Hey Wes,
Nope, it's a bolt-on design. Although after reading a discussions and inspecting the build further, I've come to the conclusion that using the side of the box that opens as the soundboard was mistake number 1. Blind to me the entire time was the giant seam running down the center of it, mostly covered by the CB's label. It appears that the pressure of the strings and the bridge/saddle may eventually split the soundboard in half. Mistake 2 was making the bridge/saddle slightly higher than the nut.
- Are you making a neck thru deisgn? That is neck goes thru the box? if so...
- Do you make any relief in the neck for the lid and do you have any extra for resonance (see example here).?
Obviously I do as my example above but I also add more depth to the neck to compensate for the weaker area left by these recesses. This is a bad example but it works well. No bend.
I've made many necks at the .75" thickness of poplar and no bend BUT I do reinforce the neck in the box. and this one has a 'truss rod' of 1/8"x1/2" steel rod from lowes in a 1/8" channel. No bow there at all.
Scotty, I wish I could get maple around my area....sounds like a nice CGB, sorry about the bowing, Ive been reading the link that was posted, nice info...Hey I would like to see any pics of this build of yours if you have the means ...Thanks ...Mike
Scotty C. said:
Michael R Cossey said:
May I ask what type of wood did you use for the neck? Oak, Poplar, other? With or without a fretboard? Mike
Hi Mike,
The neck on the latest is maple. I epoxied a non-adjustable truss rod (a 1/4" metal rod I got at Lowes) into a groove down the center of the neck. On top of that, I added a finger board made of red oak. The neck was bolted + glued to the side of the box, which I believe was cedar.
-Scott
May I ask what type of wood did you use for the neck? Oak, Poplar, other? With or without a fretboard? Mike
Hi Mike,
The neck on the latest is maple. I epoxied a non-adjustable truss rod (a 1/4" metal rod I got at Lowes) into a groove down the center of the neck. On top of that, I added a finger board made of red oak. The neck was bolted + glued to the side of the box, which I believe was cedar.
-Scott
Replies
This relates to the image you posted underneath the lamination plans, yes? Could you elaborate on what gluing them together in that grain pattern does for the strength? (I'm afraid I'm not very knowledgeable on quartersawn wood...)
-WY
Scotty C. said:
Also, Wes, for the last 2 weeks, I've been eagerly awaiting the finish of my previous build so I could get to work trying out your laminated neck instructions.
Nope, it's a bolt-on design. Although after reading a discussions and inspecting the build further, I've come to the conclusion that using the side of the box that opens as the soundboard was mistake number 1. Blind to me the entire time was the giant seam running down the center of it, mostly covered by the CB's label. It appears that the pressure of the strings and the bridge/saddle may eventually split the soundboard in half. Mistake 2 was making the bridge/saddle slightly higher than the nut.
-WY
- Are you making a neck thru deisgn? That is neck goes thru the box? if so...
- Do you make any relief in the neck for the lid and do you have any extra for resonance (see example here).?
Obviously I do as my example above but I also add more depth to the neck to compensate for the weaker area left by these recesses. This is a bad example but it works well. No bend.
I've made many necks at the .75" thickness of poplar and no bend BUT I do reinforce the neck in the box. and this one has a 'truss rod' of 1/8"x1/2" steel rod from lowes in a 1/8" channel. No bow there at all.
Just a thought
-WY
Scotty C. said:
The neck on the latest is maple. I epoxied a non-adjustable truss rod (a 1/4" metal rod I got at Lowes) into a groove down the center of the neck. On top of that, I added a finger board made of red oak. The neck was bolted + glued to the side of the box, which I believe was cedar.
-Scott
Mike
-
1
-
2
of 2 Next