So far knife and box cutter is all I've used. It works but it's very difficult. I'd appreciate any tools and or methods used by others to cut a space for wood to pass through. Thank you very much!
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Punching a hole can be a problem. Although it's probably wise to use the right tool for the job, we sometimes have to use what is at hand. I usually practice on similar materials 1st before attempting anything on a nice piece.
On my latest cookie tin build I am not cutting at all.
I 5 minute epoxied a wooden bracing block on the inside pushed the edge of the tin over and hammered it flat.a similar block at the tail holds the neck flatish and 5 minute epoxy will keep the lot together
Squooshed the lid flat and hammered it down.
This will also give me some sound holes next to the neck
Will see soon if I will need some epoxy or side screws to keep the lid down.
interesting technique. ...how do you keep from ruining/ knicking the surrounding part of the tin?
Titch the Clown > Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal MusicAugust 15, 2013 at 4:25am
By only using my fingers till the last minute and only doing final flattening with the hammer.Getting the bottom to bend in was ridiculously easy as it was bending in the unstressed direction and I had a solid backing block to support the bend . Getting the top to bend out introduced some kinks but with a little patience and some gentle tapping with a hammer there were no issues. Even if there were I would have got away with calling them character features.;)
With the lid on this is what it currently looks like
I use a jewellers piercing saw (about $20) to cut tins.I support it using a v block (a scrape of wood with a v cut it). I've cut circles and squares with no distortion. It's also very fast.I drill a starter hole to pass the blade through.I tried cutting discs but they wear out quickly and are harder to control . Most tin snips bend or distort the tin. I have used discs and snips successfully but I find the jewellers saw very easy to use .They also cut 3mm birch ply quickly and without splintering (which is common when cutting with a coping saw).
Great! I will study your posts and re-read them many times until it sinks in. I really appreciate your detailed explanations. I am grateful for your quick replies. It might take me some time to make a neck like you've explained as I have some arm pain that sucks. I have made a few cbgs over the past month but want to make one like you've outlined. Once again thank you. I'll get back on cbn when I've made some progress. Thank you very much!
Rand,
this pic and explanation of your technique and tools are extremely helpful!
Sorry, if this sounds stupid..at what point do you measure the hole to be cut in the tin? After you've cut and glued both pieces that will be inside the tin? Looks like the wood inside the tin is same size thickness (after cutting and glueing) roughly as neck size (outside the tin). Do the sum of the interior wood pieces match the size of neck? Also is there a specific size of wood you use frequently for the tin guitars as opposed to the cigar box type? The photo makes the piece of wood look large..but that's just me. Rand super inventive and creative. Thank you!
Replies
Punching a hole can be a problem. Although it's probably wise to use the right tool for the job, we sometimes have to use what is at hand. I usually practice on similar materials 1st before attempting anything on a nice piece.
Hey smilingdog -
Gosh - Can you get a smooth edge when you make a hole with that!!! :-)
Smooth edge is not a problem, it's getting your buddy to hold it still without shaking.
Bwaaaahaaaaaa!!! And he would send you the laundry bill.
On my latest cookie tin build I am not cutting at all.
I 5 minute epoxied a wooden bracing block on the inside pushed the edge of the tin over and hammered it flat.a similar block at the tail holds the neck flatish and 5 minute epoxy will keep the lot together
Squooshed the lid flat and hammered it down.
This will also give me some sound holes next to the neck
Will see soon if I will need some epoxy or side screws to keep the lid down.
As it is a Uke the neck is quite thin.
By only using my fingers till the last minute and only doing final flattening with the hammer.Getting the bottom to bend in was ridiculously easy as it was bending in the unstressed direction and I had a solid backing block to support the bend . Getting the top to bend out introduced some kinks but with a little patience and some gentle tapping with a hammer there were no issues. Even if there were I would have got away with calling them character features.;)
With the lid on this is what it currently looks like
I use a jewellers piercing saw (about $20) to cut tins.I support it using a v block (a scrape of wood with a v cut it). I've cut circles and squares with no distortion. It's also very fast.I drill a starter hole to pass the blade through.I tried cutting discs but they wear out quickly and are harder to control . Most tin snips bend or distort the tin. I have used discs and snips successfully but I find the jewellers saw very easy to use .They also cut 3mm birch ply quickly and without splintering (which is common when cutting with a coping saw).
this pic and explanation of your technique and tools are extremely helpful!
Sorry, if this sounds stupid..at what point do you measure the hole to be cut in the tin? After you've cut and glued both pieces that will be inside the tin? Looks like the wood inside the tin is same size thickness (after cutting and glueing) roughly as neck size (outside the tin). Do the sum of the interior wood pieces match the size of neck? Also is there a specific size of wood you use frequently for the tin guitars as opposed to the cigar box type? The photo makes the piece of wood look large..but that's just me. Rand super inventive and creative. Thank you!
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