Doesn't show from here but this thing is built like a tank. Top and bottom are kinda thin, so I want plenty support . Three string, GDG, 3 pole Single coil and if I can figure the wiring, 3-way switched with a piezo. Maybe different grill. Fretboard is clear white poplar with a 2 color stain, Carrington under Cabernet. One thing it won't be is fretted chromatic, but not yet sure what to do with that...fretless, fretless with diatonic/chromatic fret markings, or just fretted diatonic. Frets are making me fret over them.
I have jumbo wire for zero fret and medium wire for the others, but am having a rough time sizing the slots. Trying a couple different things for markers. Is it kosher to use adab of superglue when fretting?
Replies
nice start you have there.
Hi, sorry James you are dead right, I did not look close enough at their description, that is expensive.
Taff
Looks good to go James. I don't glue CBG frets, but on radiused fingerboards on six stringers I always do, I use Titebond. I use glue more for filling any void under the fret than it's holding ability, but it does that too.
If you are going to build more CBG's, and it sounds like you will, save yourself a lot of heartache and frustration and buy a proper fretting saw. You won't be sorry.
Taff
I got a fairly nice pull saw at Harbor Freight , but my junk xacto is a little bit thin and the HF a bit too wide. Since the HF saw was under 10 bucks, I tried something..........outside the box. This sounds nuts, but I took some of the 'set' out of the teeth with a sanding block and fine sandpaper. It actually seems to work I think. If I can fit it a little better.
Hi James, yes I understand money can be tight and hobbies can suffer due to other priorities, but......Stewmac has Japanese fret saws for under $15.00au. I don't know how many beers that is in the USA, but I'd go thirsty for a week just to buy one of those.
The red handle saw on the left has changeable blades of different thickness. The red one on the right is one of a set of three saws with different thickness blades.
I have been where you are at, and did the removing of the set thing on many saws, see photo, even wrecked the antique dovetail saw at the top of the pile. I use the Stewmac saw pictured at bottom for custom fret scales, but mainly the circular saw all the time.
If you are thinning the saw cut you might find in better to gently hammer the teeth so as not to file/sand away the sharp edge on the teeth. Also with a zero set on the saw it is harder to work and can bind in the slot on a hardwood fingerboard. To overcome this waxing the blade works, but that will coat the slot in wax and may inhibit any future gluing if needed.
Hadn't thought about hammering.
I looked at StewMac before and to me, the listings are a bit deceptive. on two saws it says "from $10.27", well that is the price of a saw stop. The actual saws are $50-60+.
If your using Gitty parts/frets, their fretting saw is made to accept their frets.