Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Casey Baron on July 19, 2017 at 10:21pm

Hello,
Ideally the bridge should be about 1/3 of the box length from the end of the box, i.e. where the tailpiece is. I would suggest measuring the 25" down from the nut, mark that location on the neck, and then add about 3 or so inches. After that you can then add the 1-2 inches for the string anchor, and cut the neck off at that point. Then you sould have an ideal bridge location on the box.
I hope this helps.

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on July 19, 2017 at 10:21pm

You are on the right track.  Generally the bridge (your eyebolt) is somewhere between the midpoint and lower third or quarter of the box.  Looking at your ruler, I would suggest to go the 28 or 29" or even 30" mark for your bridge, then move the nut down accordingly to keep your 25" scale.  If the area for the tuners is too long, it is easy to cut a little off at the end.

Also on a more minor note, the box is technically upside down for a right handed player.  It should generally be right side up when sitting in your lap.  But as there are no rules, that may be how you want it.

Have fun and build another based on what you learned!

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Permalink Reply by Arthur Putnam on July 19, 2017 at 10:30pm

Thank you that all makes sense I will adjust accordingly. Yes I had the box turned just to show my lines for lid cut out. Much appreciate it. Back to the shop.

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on July 19, 2017 at 10:43pm

The other guys have set you straight, but i'd add do a layout of your tuners before you cut the head, if you have to jam them up, tuning becomes a PIA, i try to space them at at least 35 mm apart, [about 1 3/8"], and you need a bit of length from nut to 1st tuner, especially if the tuners are not inline with the string track

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Permalink Reply by Arthur Putnam on July 19, 2017 at 10:48pm

Good advise I will take that also into the layout. Still waiting on the tuners to get here. Hope this weekend. I will leave the head area till then to lay them out. Thanks for the tip.

Arthur

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on July 20, 2017 at 5:11pm

I also usually add another inch or so for a hang hole and sometimes a bit of angle or shape to the top of the headstock too.

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Permalink Reply by Grandpa on July 20, 2017 at 4:59pm

A good point bry Darryl, especially to a new builder. Tuner spacing is not an afterthought.  I usually have a 5 inch headstock for my 3 string gits. I install the first tuner 1 1/2 inches from the nut, then space the tuners 1 1/4 inches on center. Plenty of room to twist the tuners, especially with a 3 string - 2L, 1R, or 1L, 2R.  2L, 2R  tuners on a 4 string git I use the same 1 1/2 inch space from the nut, 1 3/4 inch spacing between tuners. Good luck with your build, hope this is helpful. By the way, my very first git had one tuner on each side, one across the top. Headstock too short. Functional, but not pleasing to my eyes. 

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Permalink Reply by Arthur Putnam on July 20, 2017 at 6:51pm

thank you, Yep I going to make the head much longer than the plans call for. I appreciate everyones feedback

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Permalink Reply by JL on July 21, 2017 at 8:59am

same advice here the others gave you, lay out the tuners and figure out how much headstock you need, then mark where you want the nut, mark your bridge position on the neck (scale length), hold it on/nextto the box so the bridge will be about 1/3 or 1/4 of the box from the tail, mark where the ends of the box is on the neck, the extra sticks out the tail and you can lop off however much you don't need

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Permalink Reply by Arthur Putnam on July 21, 2017 at 9:13am

yep, pretty much what I did last night in the shop. Turners should be here today. And I will double check everything after laying them out. Then place the nut and mark out the frets and bridge location. Will not cut anything until I have the tuners layout and adjust for the 25 inch scale layout so the bridge is located bottom 1/3 area... Thank you

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