Hi everyone, I've just joined here today as I'm planning on building a 3 string bass CBG.

It's a good while since I've done any woodworking but I'm the creative type and I like to throw myself into new projects all the time.  Just as a side note I'm also in the UK too...

I managed to get a wooden box (not a cigar box but it was sold as a spirit box) that appears to have been storage for a bottle of something unidentified, but it's about 275mm x 165mm x 105mm, so it's got a little bit of depth and should do the job nicely, for 6 quid :P  Also if anyone can identify the wood (pics attached) that it's made from that'd be great, the seller didn't know, only that it was relatively old!

Anyway, I want to build a neck this week, and I've found a timber yard that's not too far away in Wigan, that have a nice selection of hardwoods.  I'll put a list below, but at the moment I plan to make a 50mm wide laminate neck comprised of 2 pieces of 18mm x 25mm European beech, and a 'skunk stripe' of sapele which would be 14mm x 25mm.  I also plan on getting a piece of something to make a fingerboard, but I can't decide on what would be best.

The choices at the supplier are: American Ash, European Beech, American Cherry, Douglas Fir, Canadian Hemlock, Idigbo, Iroko, Canadian Maple, Meranti, American White Oak, European Oak, Eastern White Palm, Poplar, Sapele, Utile, and Western Red Cedar.

I was pondering using Iroko as a fingerboard until I read that the dust is carcinogenic.  So don't really want to start playing with fire there :P  I'm not sure how most of these woods are in regards to tone, but since I'm building a bass here and not a guitar I was hoping to get something relatively warm and mellow, like mahogany.  Therefore I think Sapaele would be a good choice... but there are a lot of options... oh and how well would a 3 piece neck (plus fingerboard, plus some reinforcement on the opposite side at the bridge end) hold 3 electric bass strings tuned to E A D?  I don't really like the idea of adding a truss rod since this is only meant to be a cheap project so that me and a mate can have a bit of a blues jame with his newly made diddley bow :P  Any advice would be appreciated!

Cheers :)

_1017031.JPG

_1017033.JPG

You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!

Join Cigar Box Nation

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • Cheers for the input John, I'm thinking I might do the angled back one to avoid using any kind of string tensioner. I'm debating the possibility of picking up a piece of hardwood from a local timber supplier to make the headstock from a seperate single piece, but I'm not finished with my design yet :D

    On a side note, I managed to grab some slower setting (repositionable for approx. 20 mins) epoxy today, at Wilkinsons. Their own brand, Wilko, and cheap too! They also stock Araldite but it costs twice as much, so I figured I would give this a go to see how well it performs. As always they also stocked their own brand of quick setting 5 min epoxy, and after a quick google it seems to be quite well regarded - apparently it sets clear and rock solid. I'll let everyone know how well it works :)

    Also it might be worth mentioning if people aren't aware that Wilkinsons stock a hefty selection of DIY equipment and tools, including all the wood glue, epoxies, wood fillers, varnishes etc that you might need to help in a CBG build. I managed to grab a set of 6 files for £3.57, the epoxy was £2.47 and I got a Wilko Sure-shape (surform) block plane for less than a fiver too. They also had a ton of different sandpapers, replacement blades etc etc... and a load of Stanley tools for those who don't go for own-brand :P

    The only thing I couldn't find and still need to get is a spokeshave!

    Also before I forget, this neck will be fretless, to encourage me to learn to play that way. As you know John, the fingerbaord will be oak. I'm going to stain it, saw fret 'slots' but I'd like to fill them in and smooth them over just so that frets are marked out for me. I've seen people insert pieces of maple and sand them down, are there any other ways to do this? Not sure I've got the facilities for cuting wood so thin!
  • This is what I sometimes use for a Fender style "set back" headstock - chop the top off and glue it onto the back, thin it down and radius the transitions (easy if you've got a belt sander..but if not don't sweat it) Just make sure you slip the cut off part back enough to ensure that there's enough "meat" behind the nut at the transition point. It allows you to do the set back rather than the tilt back scarf joint without having to have really thick piece of timber to start with. The key with all of these glue joints is to design the joint to maximise the gluing area, and to make sure the glued faces are as flat and true as possible for a nice consistent thin glue line.

    Lee Ackerley said:
    I'll have a think about that... the only place I can get the slow setting stuff (from what I can tell) is B&Q :S ...and it's 4 pound odd...

    Also, the only thing that's concerning me now is how to make the headstock join. I've narrowed it down to this 'parallel' scarf join and a more common one. The first one would make it far easier for me to thin the headstock and shape it, etc, but at the cost of some strength? Anyone tried the first one?
  • I tend to use the trad joint one..then you can put a fretboard over it and the whole thing is well reinforced by the 'board. The quickset Araldite gives you quite long working time, perhaps 5-10mins, but when I last bought some, the guy in the shop said he didn't rate the rapid-set stuff - lots of customer complaints (and this is a trad hardware /ironmongers sort of place where they know their stuff run by two guys well past retirement age with a wealth of knowledge) and my experience is that it doesn't set quite as hard as trad type epoxy.

    Lee Ackerley said:
    I'll have a think about that... the only place I can get the slow setting stuff (from what I can tell) is B&Q :S ...and it's 4 pound odd...

    Also, the only thing that's concerning me now is how to make the headstock join. I've narrowed it down to this 'parallel' scarf join and a more common one. The first one would make it far easier for me to thin the headstock and shape it, etc, but at the cost of some strength? Anyone tried the first one?
  • I'll have a think about that... the only place I can get the slow setting stuff (from what I can tell) is B&Q :S ...and it's 4 pound odd...

    Also, the only thing that's concerning me now is how to make the headstock join. I've narrowed it down to this 'parallel' scarf join and a more common one. The first one would make it far easier for me to thin the headstock and shape it, etc, but at the cost of some strength? Anyone tried the first one?

    neck-design_3-1.png

  • I managed to track down some Loctite epoxy quite cheap at a local DIY shop today, but it's quick set (5min) - not recommended?

    B&Q are useless and are now boycotted - said they had square steel tube in stock when they didn't. Managed to get some 10mm threaded steel rod, 2 x 500m for £1.99 at wickes, should do the job
  • Use Araldite Precision (blue and white pack), not the quick setting stuff, 24hrs is typical curing time.
  • Thanks again Don, btw I missed what you said about the headstock earlier - I was avoiding a slotted headstock because I doubt the tuning pegs would hold bass strings well?

    Also, how slow setting does the epoxy need to be? I've never used it so would it take an hour or 24? :D

    Cheers :)
  • The tube will make it much easier to epoxy in also as well as be a stronger glue joint. Clean the metal well and use a slow setting repoxy.
    Don

    Lee Ackerley said:
    I've managed to find some 8mm x 8mm and 10mm x 10mm square steel tube which should be just perfect for reinforcing the neck without being *quite* as heavy as solid steel bars :)

    Getting excited about this build now! :P
  • I've managed to find some 8mm x 8mm and 10mm x 10mm square steel tube which should be just perfect for reinforcing the neck without being *quite* as heavy as solid steel bars :)

    Getting excited about this build now! :P
  • If you are using a plain steel reinforcement, try some simple 10mm square section bar...it works fine simply epoxied into place but it's heavy tho' (or why not use a regular trussrod?..buy a dual action one for a tenner, or it's easy to make a single action one with some allthread bar and nuts.

    Don't fret about the type of wood influencing the tone..it's a freaking cigar box guitar..any decent bit of hardwood will do the trick....jeez, I pull most of my stuff out of skips and I'm past no 250 now in terms of guitars built. By the way, if you want some oak or mahogany I've got 1/2 tonne of the stuff..I'll plane & thickness some to size and send it to you...cheapo!
This reply was deleted.