Does anyone have any tips on how to prevent neck bow? I'm not really having any issues, it just ran through my head. I have a couple of thoughts and wanted to see if anyone else had something along the same lines.
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Hi, I saw the words natural reverb mentioned here and thought I'd share how I got natural reverb in my most recent build. It was nothing to do with necks but with how I built the body. Very responsive.
I use a Pig Nose amp a lot but found it very lacking in any reverb, I'm not a fan of a dry "uncoloured" tone so I bought a reverb pedal to use with it.
But now with the guitar pictured here, the natural reverb from the CBG come through the amp and sounds more interesting/pleasant to my ears. Bit off topic, sorry.
Cheers Taff
Paul Craig > Taffy EvansJanuary 13, 2017 at 6:46pm
When I made my 4 string Gas Can-jo, I used a through piece for the can to bolt the neck on. The neck is Red Oak with a Red Oak fretboard and the through piece is Red Oak. I used my drill with a Forstner bit to cut a 5/32" wide channel and 17/32" deep in the neck and through piece and glued a piece of 1/8" x 1/2" steel flat bar in them for a non-adjustable trussrod and stabilizer.
That may have been overkill and not needed. But I'm very sure that they will remain stable forever. I also think the steel added some sustain and better harmonics to the neck and through piece.
Paul, you were talking about a non adjustable truss rod, then JL was joking about tone metals. Ed Stilley did some guitars with a circular saw blade attached to such a truss rod, you will find an x-ray of one on
According to Ed Stilley circular saw blades are excellent tone metal...
Paul Craig > Moritz VoegeliJanuary 10, 2017 at 3:46pm
You can get a good reverb thing going with some metal springs in your box. Shane did a video on that.
I tend to use metal for my bridges, I think it sounds better. I have a Fender Strat clone guitar that I changed the wimpy pot metal trem block out for a steel one and noticed a good change right off.
I guess it depends on where you put that saw blade as to whether you'd get any benefit from it. Instrument dynamic's can be very interesting.
Hi Joe, the most stable necks I think are when timber is cut on the 1/4, grain running vertically top to bottom. If I cant get this, the photo shows what I do if the grain is too far off of vertical.
I've seen some rock maple electric guitar necks that are slab cut, grain going side to side, but generally guitar necks are cut on the 1/4.
Replies
Hi, I saw the words natural reverb mentioned here and thought I'd share how I got natural reverb in my most recent build. It was nothing to do with necks but with how I built the body. Very responsive.
I use a Pig Nose amp a lot but found it very lacking in any reverb, I'm not a fan of a dry "uncoloured" tone so I bought a reverb pedal to use with it.
But now with the guitar pictured here, the natural reverb from the CBG come through the amp and sounds more interesting/pleasant to my ears. Bit off topic, sorry.
Cheers Taff
Nice looking git Taffy.
When I made my 4 string Gas Can-jo, I used a through piece for the can to bolt the neck on. The neck is Red Oak with a Red Oak fretboard and the through piece is Red Oak. I used my drill with a Forstner bit to cut a 5/32" wide channel and 17/32" deep in the neck and through piece and glued a piece of 1/8" x 1/2" steel flat bar in them for a non-adjustable trussrod and stabilizer.
That may have been overkill and not needed. But I'm very sure that they will remain stable forever. I also think the steel added some sustain and better harmonics to the neck and through piece.
Seeing the side view pic was better. That was a very interestingly shaped guitar, serious lack of upper fret access. Sounded good though.
Are we going to start a thread on tonemetal? BwaHaHaHa
No, that wasn't my intent, but it's an idea. LOL
http://www.freeweekly.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/XRayBanjo.jpg
According to Ed Stilley circular saw blades are excellent tone metal...
You can get a good reverb thing going with some metal springs in your box. Shane did a video on that.
I tend to use metal for my bridges, I think it sounds better. I have a Fender Strat clone guitar that I changed the wimpy pot metal trem block out for a steel one and noticed a good change right off.
I guess it depends on where you put that saw blade as to whether you'd get any benefit from it. Instrument dynamic's can be very interesting.
Hi Joe, the most stable necks I think are when timber is cut on the 1/4, grain running vertically top to bottom. If I cant get this, the photo shows what I do if the grain is too far off of vertical.
I've seen some rock maple electric guitar necks that are slab cut, grain going side to side, but generally guitar necks are cut on the 1/4.
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