I'm confused guys. I can buy a fingerboard precut with 25,5" fretscale which is 517 mm long (20.35").

My box is 456 mm long (17.95"). Now I start calculating. I want  the bridge to be about 56 mm (2.2") from the end of the box.

This results in: nut to bridge 247 mm (9.72") /270 mm |(10.63") of fingerboard over the boxlid /130 mm (5.12") between end fingerboard and bridge /56 mm to end of box.

Looking at the 25.5"scale this will only give me room to play untill the 8th fret (9.43"from the nut).

So I guess there is something to be adjusted. Should I move the bridge more to the center of the box and how will this influence the acoustics?

If I do move the bridge  more to the center, then the boxtrough construction will give me noo a steep angle of the strings anymore  and I'll have to go for another end construction.

Who can give my some advose? Mind you I'm a beginner, not an expert so please simple advise ;-)

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Replies

  • You could do a bridge similar to this306150120?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

  • My dreadnought is only 20" long on the box. Smaller size guitar is probably about the size of your box. So maybe you want to treat it that way. Plan for the fretboard breaking over the box at the 12th fret if you want to be like a classical guitar, or at the 14th fret to be like a standard dreadnought or other steel string. Condiser using a tail piece and a floating bridge so you do not have to be,precise setting the bridge location at the start. That will put your bridge closer to the centre of the box.

    Hope this helps
    • Okay I have decided. I use a acoustic floating bridge which I modified. Second I'm gone use a tailpeze something like a trapeze thing. Have to look for a hinge or something like it. Bridge is going to be spot on twice  the distance from the nut ( as nut to 12th fret).

      To be sure I can adjust a little I made some eliptical hole in the box for the piezo wire so it is possible to move it for about 1/4".

      Furthermore I'm going to use a single coil pickup from suntek, for which I also have to determine the location.

      Has onyone advise for tje distaince strings to rails if the pickup.

      Some photo's I;ll try to make next week.

  • unless you are gonna compensate it, then it would be a tad shorter, and I use tad in the scientific sense of course!

    • Well guy's due tosome circumstances I haven't been working for a long time on my CBG. Now I'm picking up again and again the work. In addition to all mentioned above I have finished the neck and the bridge. On my BIG box the bridge is app. in the middle.

      Now I have 2 choices for stringends to attach.

      1: At the end of a tailpiece which has the disadvantage of length and not so steep from the top of the bridge to the end of the box.Pro is to have the full top of the box vibrating which gives better sound I think.

      2: Attach the strings by making attachment closer to the bridge by drilling and using rivets. Gives morre pressure on the bridge cause there is a steep angle. Con is that the vibrating area will be disturbed  a bit.

      Which one is tje best? All help and advice is welcome!!!!!!!!

      • There is a third option: the trapeze tailpiece. I use curled or cutoff forks, or bent spoons for mine (see my photo album on my profile page). You could also do the Fender or Schecter string through the body and neck idea ( I think Dan Sleep posted a photo yesterday which shows this, even though the photo was actually showing how to add supports for a humbucker).
      •  Post up some pics of the build , this will give us a better understanding of your problem

  • For 25.5" scale, nut to bridge has to be , well, 25.5" period.

    • Just ordered my 25,5"fretboard and will arrive next week. I'll keep you informed about the process and which place I make for the bridge. Tnx all for the advice so far.

       

  • Really man, don't tell the guy to build 23" scale on a neck fretted for 25.5"= recipe for disaster!

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