Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jeremiah Cornelius on March 28, 2010 at 3:00pm

You want a Dremel for the bone cutting. And a respirator. Dust is killer. And it smells BAD! Work outside...

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Permalink Reply by Roger Martin on March 28, 2010 at 3:13pm

I would say no to Gorilla glue.It works ok as a filler but the very reason it fills is also the reason its hard to clean up.It expands and get in every corner or area where you DONT want it to go.I used to use it a couple of years ago so your not alone in finding out its good and bad points.
I just use Elmers yellow glue.But a lot of folks here use Titebond and it works great too.I only use Elmers because I know it works and its much easier for me to find in my area.
Dont worry so much about making mistakes,it aint no big deal.I'm sure your already planing your next build,

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on March 28, 2010 at 3:36pm

Q) How do I clean up the gorilla wood glue mess? Will I have to remove the fret board? What is a good way to true out the sides, if you don't have a plain machine? All I have is a chisel and rasp and sand paper.

I usually build a fire and see how long the wood takes to make charcoal. Then I build another neck.

Seriously tho, I knew what 'rilla glue do. Good stuff if you have any messes to make or wanna glue the kids to the ceiling. First off, get you the plans we have in the Free Resources section. Then Titebond red label (Original). Then build another neck. No hope in my book for a mess like this.

As far as I have seen I have not found any plans that deal with bonding a fret board. If you are using a through the body build, do the plans stay the same? Or is there something different I should do when I cut the body to fit the neck.

The plans stay the same with exception the fretboard extends over the neck and some of the lid (as per your design of course). Simply make the neck (sans fretboard) flush with the lid by making a recessed area (usually 1/4"). Glue the neck to the lid -- with something other than Gorilla glue. Titebond, hide glue, Elmers, chewing gum and spit -- anything but Gorilla glue. I even screw the lids down if I don't want to glue. Then the fretboard gets glued onto that. Simple simple. I use 4 small wood clamps from Harbor Freight after I position them. Some folks take staple gun staples and pop them into the neck 'top' then cut them off ~1/16" so they are like pins. This holds the fretboard in place while gluing and clamping. Only need a few.

You're in the US. Get a hand plane from Harbor Freight. Comes in REAL handy. Wood clamps too.

-WY

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Permalink Reply by KaptnKen on March 28, 2010 at 3:41pm

Gorilla glue is a pain to try and clean up after the fact. Rasp and sandpaper block is about the only way to get it true at this point.

Here's a little trick to keep the fret board from creeping on you when you clamp it...take a couple of straight pins (raid the wife's sewing basket) and push them into the neck along where the fret board is going, about where the 3rd and 15th fret would be. Then clip them off close. You want just a little tip sticking up, a 1/16" is more than plenty. So that when you clamp the two together, those little pins will stick into the fretboard and hold it in place so it won't slip.

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Permalink Reply by Claude on March 28, 2010 at 3:49pm

Hi Rex,
I got bored one day and read this PDF about Glue, I know, that's almost too nerdy for words, LOL. Anyway, it's a really good read and basically it says, "Titebond III or Elmers Carpenters" are the strongest.
Here it is: How Strong is Your Glue PDF...Research
OH YEAH, there was another very nice person on this Forum that listed this info... Jonathan and his thread is titled...how strong is your glue? How about that, very cool. This is a wonderful place with good ppl.

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Permalink Reply by Wichita Sam on March 28, 2010 at 4:16pm

gorilla glue .....bad... expands and pushes parts around....

wood glue..... good .... fills small voids for strong bonding...

gorilla glue good for repairing furniture with sloppy joints

gorilla glue ... bad for almost anything CBG....


Stick with a good wood glue, plus some CA glue for quick setting things like nuts.....

the best,

wichita Sam

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Permalink Reply by Shawn on March 28, 2010 at 4:48pm

Like the others said. No gg stick to titebond as for the pin idea this is how I was shown by a luither. 1 find the smallest nail you can find mark out were your 3rd and 15th dot marks would be and drill a small hole to insert the nail into the fret board. line it( the fret board) onto the neck and lightly tap the nail through the fret board into the neck.
Next take off fret board spread glue onto back side of fret board place onto neck with nails lined up with holes. Then take it upside down to your table saw and clamp it down go eat lunch come back in 1 to 2 hours unclamp pull nails and set aside till next day. Then when you put your dots in they cover the nail holes and bamm they are gone

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Permalink Reply by Robert Edwin Keable on March 28, 2010 at 9:10pm

Hi a little tip for all of you who have a problem with the Gerrr!-illa glue if you want to take it apart use nail polish remover. It'll soften the polyurathene foam and you'll be able to prise them apart...

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Permalink Reply by Julian Perry on March 28, 2010 at 9:26pm

Hey Rex, I've always had a real battle keeping the fretboards in place whilst tightening the clamps, but following advice from 'the nation' have used the pin idea successfully and also a few grains of coarse sand sprinkled in the glue (just 10 or so) before clamping helps to stop the sliding around. I always use Elmers or Titebond too.

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on March 29, 2010 at 1:46am

Nice to know! Thanks (not that I use GG, but always good info).

-WY

Robert Edwin Keable said:

Hi a little tip for all of you who have a problem with the Gerrr!-illa glue if you want to take it apart use nail polish remover. It'll soften the polyurathene foam and you'll be able to prise them apart...

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on March 29, 2010 at 1:48am

Hmmmm, I wonder if course salt would be the same as the sand? Or would that be toobig of a grain? Good suggestion!

-WY

Julian Perry said:

Hey Rex, I've always had a real battle keeping the fretboards in place whilst tightening the clamps, but following advice from 'the nation' have used the pin idea successfully and also a few grains of coarse sand sprinkled in the glue (just 10 or so) before clamping helps to stop the sliding around. I always use Elmers or Titebond too.

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Permalink Reply by Alan Roberts on March 29, 2010 at 1:52am

Like people said here, pin your next fretboard in place somehow. Fancy clamps? Not really necessary. Even (especially?) if the neck is shaped already, the cheapest and most efficient fretboard clamps are a bunch of dowels (or chopstick bits) across the fretboard, with heavy-duty rubber bands passing underneath. Clamps like holding two parallel surfaces together; rubber bands just don't care.

I had a fret board wander off and was able to pry it off with a chisel without doing any serious harm. Used standard woodworking glue, so I don't know what to say about gorilla glue. Without seeing your photos, I don't know if you should fix or toss. If there's not TOO much wandering side to side, a chisel and rasp are EXACTLY what you need. Plus loads of sandpaper, of course.

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