I bought a kill switch from radio shack (part 275-1566) it's a push button switch. I can't seem to find out how to wire the switch to jack? It's really hard to read what's written on the kill switch even with reading glasses...hah! I have a simple piezo disk and jack and would really appreciate if someone could tell me how to wire what connection wire to what. Can't find anything on Cbn or Internet other than other diagrams for more complicated scenarios. Thank you-Jon
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What's so strange is I could swear I need a normally "closed" momentary switch
not a normally open....I'm so frustrated because I actually returned the right kind I think? I've tried so many combinations. Is it possible to wire this in reverse somehow to get the piezo to stay on except when I press the button? Thanks
darryl kernaghan > Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal MusicOctober 15, 2016 at 10:23pm
I think the terminology refers to closed as being circuit incomplete, as in going to ground, or just stopped, if so, you probably need a "normally open" switch
Old post here....
I thought I had this solved but somethings wrong.
I got a piezo hooked up to a jack. It's fine.
I have an always closed kill switch.
Do I need an always open kill switch because I've checked with clips all these diagrams and it ain't working...any help here appreciated even though I thought I had this solved . No volume knob just piezo, jack and an always closed killswitch...
This is an old post...wonder how to add a volume pot?
diagram 2 (which ended up working) might have had redundant wires both hot and ground) on the piezo disk ...I don't have that cbg anymore so I can't tell.
This is what did happen. The signal remained on and when I pushed the button the signal cut off. There was a pop unless distortion was added . I never used a resistor which might have helped the pop when run clean .
So I wonder if David L drawings would have eliminated the pop and eliminated the need for extra soldering on the piezo disc. Certainly would want to add a volume pot but have no idea where I'm diagram 2 it would go?
I normally connect at the jack socket like the top diagram below. I did read separating the connections can reduce popping so if you are playing around with test wires try the bottom diagram and see if it is any better.
You are just adding a wire between the positive part of the signal and the ground so the switch just needs one lug connected to either the live/hot and the other lug to the earth/ground. the switch doesn't need to be a particular way around (which is why it isn't labelled + or -).
This gives good info on momentary switches and killswitches.
Note that there are 2 types - I have seen them also sold as "push to make" or "push to break". The link also uses
N.O. contacts = Normally Open contacts = The circuit is open (i.e., "Off") when the button isn't touched. When you touch it, you make a connection between the two contacts.
N.C. contacts = Normally Closed contacts = The circuit is closed (i.e., "On") when the button isn't touched. When you touch it, you break the signal
You need a Normally Open (off)/push to make type of switch. If you have the other type you will find the sound through the amp is silent until you push the button (the reverse of what you want).
Darryl,
Diagram 2 is the one that was perfect. To all those who helped on this I'm very grateful!!!
Least noise and works until button is pressed and shuts off sound ...I'm installing into guitar and will get a sample of how it sounds as soon as i can. Once again!!! Thanks to everyone who helped me. Now there's a diagram for others to see. Great job everyone.
Also, yes it's pops unless distorted!!! Also the switch needs to be in place before soldering...a lesson learned. Still pretty cool for a hole drilled by mistake..and you all gave me confiidence I could probably install other types of switches and knobs in the future.
eric gittins > Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal MusicMarch 26, 2013 at 8:36pm
have you tried the 'pull-down resistor' to minimise the pop? this is a large value (maybe 10M) resistor across the switch, this is how gibson keep their variotone switch from popping.
if in doubt as to what it may do to your tone, just touch the resistor across the lugs of the switch while playing to see if you can hear a difference.
Replies
not a normally open....I'm so frustrated because I actually returned the right kind I think? I've tried so many combinations. Is it possible to wire this in reverse somehow to get the piezo to stay on except when I press the button? Thanks
I think the terminology refers to closed as being circuit incomplete, as in going to ground, or just stopped, if so, you probably need a "normally open" switch
I thought I had this solved but somethings wrong.
I got a piezo hooked up to a jack. It's fine.
I have an always closed kill switch.
Do I need an always open kill switch because I've checked with clips all these diagrams and it ain't working...any help here appreciated even though I thought I had this solved . No volume knob just piezo, jack and an always closed killswitch...
diagram 2 (which ended up working) might have had redundant wires both hot and ground) on the piezo disk ...I don't have that cbg anymore so I can't tell.
This is what did happen. The signal remained on and when I pushed the button the signal cut off. There was a pop unless distortion was added . I never used a resistor which might have helped the pop when run clean .
So I wonder if David L drawings would have eliminated the pop and eliminated the need for extra soldering on the piezo disc. Certainly would want to add a volume pot but have no idea where I'm diagram 2 it would go?
I normally connect at the jack socket like the top diagram below. I did read separating the connections can reduce popping so if you are playing around with test wires try the bottom diagram and see if it is any better.
You are just adding a wire between the positive part of the signal and the ground so the switch just needs one lug connected to either the live/hot and the other lug to the earth/ground. the switch doesn't need to be a particular way around (which is why it isn't labelled + or -).
This gives good info on momentary switches and killswitches.
http://alexplorer.net/guitar/mods/killswitch.html
Note that there are 2 types - I have seen them also sold as "push to make" or "push to break". The link also uses
You need a Normally Open (off)/push to make type of switch. If you have the other type you will find the sound through the amp is silent until you push the button (the reverse of what you want).
Regards,
David
Is this wiring diagram correct?
Diagram 2 is the one that was perfect. To all those who helped on this I'm very grateful!!!
Least noise and works until button is pressed and shuts off sound ...I'm installing into guitar and will get a sample of how it sounds as soon as i can. Once again!!! Thanks to everyone who helped me. Now there's a diagram for others to see. Great job everyone.
have you tried the 'pull-down resistor' to minimise the pop? this is a large value (maybe 10M) resistor across the switch, this is how gibson keep their variotone switch from popping.
if in doubt as to what it may do to your tone, just touch the resistor across the lugs of the switch while playing to see if you can hear a difference.
e
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