I have this cbg with quite a few issues.
Can I make fret measurements and slice fret marks from the nut to each fret without being 100% sure of bridge placement yet. I have a very good idea of the scale and 25.5 is the goal.
Because the box I used is odd and i made the neck and fretboard like this .(see awful drawing)..I won't know exactly where the bridge will be ...if I'm in the ballpark of the bridge but if I measure the nut to each fret... Will that be ok in the end ...by adjusting the bridge later? Here's an awful drawing of what I mean...I mean real awful drawing
The fretboard and neck goes above the box and just about touches it. It's a neck thru design ..but there is a slight gap. I'm accounting for the gap but just wanna get on with the frets..hope this makes sense.
If you know approximately where the bridge will sit, within 1/2 in, then you can mark and cut the fret slots measuring from the nut, putting either the 25.5 mark of your ruler at the nut position of the fingerboard or the 0 mark of the ruler at the nut, depending on which direction the fret calculator gives the layout.
And once you string it up you can then shift the bridge to correct the intonation (usually a few more millimeters away from the nut on the treble side and a few extra millimeters on the bass side.
Well...this could be another topic but since there's a little history already here goes...
If anyone wants to help I really appreciate it. this is my CBG nightmare sort of speak. That crazy looking high fretboard had to be built up that high because I needed an extra piece of 1/4" wood to reach the lid box. The very top piece is only to hold the glue joint for the time being. I'm trying to think of a way to make a string break using a bolt as a nut. I will have to shorten the scale as the string break is too sudden and too high to reach the tuners/headstock. I don't mind going shorter scale but it wasn't my intention. The current scale is 25.5 inches... ...the string break is too high for the headstock... I was intending on filing a groove for the nut but now I don't know what to do at all ...anyone have any ideas... Some kind of gradual decline down to the headstock was my thought but I'm not sure and I don't want to make it too short of a scale. That 1/4" inch piece of wood is just hold the glue joints for now... Boy I really messed this one up and it's for my friend as the above post reads.. I didn't realize that the headstock was so close to the end of the fretboard /string break.
darryl kernaghan > Jon Leslie/Runaway Veal MusicDecember 17, 2014 at 12:40am
i know it's not you want to hear Jon,but that neck is nearly unplayable,can you remove the extra fretboard,and lift the whole neck as it enters the box,and maybe add a heel to cover your cut out?
I did this before on another guitar but not with 3 pieces of wood just 2...it worked out ok in the end but it was for me. Here's the old one where I made the same mistake
Hey thanks everyone for putting up with me on all my numerous posts lately..I made a promise to a friend and bit off more than I can chew right now....really thanks.
In a nutshell, the intended scale length determines the fret spacing. This is the most critical part of the design. If you use a fret calculator (Stwemart-MacDonald or Wfret, perhaps), the chart will give your exact measurements for the frets based on the scale. Once the fretboard is slotted/fretted/installed on neck, the real fun begins.
If using a floating bridge (one that isn't secured to top of box with screws/glue), place the bridge 25.5" from the nut. String up the guitar, then adjust for the intonation. There will likely be dozens of suggestions how to do it. I suggest watching a few videos on Youtube. Having a visual depiction of what is being explained makes a huge difference in understanding this process. It isn't hard to do.
If you're using a bridge like those one's CB Gitty is selling (the 3 or 4 string adjustable chrome bridges), Stew Mac's fret calculator will give a setup position measurement for the bridge plate screw hole locations based on your particular scale length. This is so that once you start adjusting the individual saddles, you have plenty of movement/room to adjust within the limited range of those bridges.
For 25.5" scale length, on the chrome bridges mentioned above, StewMac.com suggests setting the forward holes of the bridge (the ones closest to nut) at 25.25" (+ or - 0.030") from nut. This way you can adjust the saddles. I know it sounds weird, but it is what it is.
Replies
If you know approximately where the bridge will sit, within 1/2 in, then you can mark and cut the fret slots measuring from the nut, putting either the 25.5 mark of your ruler at the nut position of the fingerboard or the 0 mark of the ruler at the nut, depending on which direction the fret calculator gives the layout.
And once you string it up you can then shift the bridge to correct the intonation (usually a few more millimeters away from the nut on the treble side and a few extra millimeters on the bass side.
If anyone wants to help I really appreciate it. this is my CBG nightmare sort of speak. That crazy looking high fretboard had to be built up that high because I needed an extra piece of 1/4" wood to reach the lid box. The very top piece is only to hold the glue joint for the time being. I'm trying to think of a way to make a string break using a bolt as a nut. I will have to shorten the scale as the string break is too sudden and too high to reach the tuners/headstock. I don't mind going shorter scale but it wasn't my intention. The current scale is 25.5 inches... ...the string break is too high for the headstock... I was intending on filing a groove for the nut but now I don't know what to do at all ...anyone have any ideas... Some kind of gradual decline down to the headstock was my thought but I'm not sure and I don't want to make it too short of a scale. That 1/4" inch piece of wood is just hold the glue joints for now... Boy I really messed this one up and it's for my friend as the above post reads.. I didn't realize that the headstock was so close to the end of the fretboard /string break.
image.jpg
i know it's not you want to hear Jon,but that neck is nearly unplayable,can you remove the extra fretboard,and lift the whole neck as it enters the box,and maybe add a heel to cover your cut out?
Thank you
image.jpg
image.jpg
In a nutshell, the intended scale length determines the fret spacing. This is the most critical part of the design. If you use a fret calculator (Stwemart-MacDonald or Wfret, perhaps), the chart will give your exact measurements for the frets based on the scale. Once the fretboard is slotted/fretted/installed on neck, the real fun begins.
If using a floating bridge (one that isn't secured to top of box with screws/glue), place the bridge 25.5" from the nut. String up the guitar, then adjust for the intonation. There will likely be dozens of suggestions how to do it. I suggest watching a few videos on Youtube. Having a visual depiction of what is being explained makes a huge difference in understanding this process. It isn't hard to do.
If you're using a bridge like those one's CB Gitty is selling (the 3 or 4 string adjustable chrome bridges), Stew Mac's fret calculator will give a setup position measurement for the bridge plate screw hole locations based on your particular scale length. This is so that once you start adjusting the individual saddles, you have plenty of movement/room to adjust within the limited range of those bridges.
For 25.5" scale length, on the chrome bridges mentioned above, StewMac.com suggests setting the forward holes of the bridge (the ones closest to nut) at 25.25" (+ or - 0.030") from nut. This way you can adjust the saddles. I know it sounds weird, but it is what it is.
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