I have a maple neck and fretboard (one piece) that is already fretted and now I need to finish it properly, I know that maple fretboards have to be sealed and protected, but I don't know the best way to do this...especially since it is already fretted. Suggestions? Advice?
This is my first CBG build and I have the unfortunate tendency to be very particular when I do something like this.
Thanks, guys!
Replies
I've been trying something new for my necks and I like the results a lot. Your mileage may vary!
After any staining is done, I apply a heavy, almost glopped-on, coat of paste wax (use fingers or a paper towel), then play a heatgun over it to melt it and let it soak in. Don't go nuts with the heat, obviously! Keep going over the surface and rubbing the wax in with a folded up paper towel. Do the whole neck and fretboard (I have been finishing my necks prior to attaching them to the box - frets are in already). Let it cool off, then rub it down some more with the towel. You can hit it lightly with the heatgun again to take care of any areas where there's still wax. It makes a nice matte finish and it feels quite good on the hand. Get as much wax soaked in as possible.
I use Trewax brand rather than Johnson's paste wax because it has more carnuba and doesn't smell as bad. http://www.amazon.com/Trewax-Paste-Wax-Clear-12-35-Ounce/dp/B005SRV1PI
Oh, one other thing I've been doing to the backs of my necks is to "bone" them. 'What's that?', you ask... You take a smooth metal tube, like you might use for a slide, and rub it very hard over the surface of the wood to compress the surface a bit and condense it (after waxing). If you can hook some handles on to the metal tube to get even more pressure, go for it. The waxed wood becomes silky smooth after boning. This method was used in woodturning, and maybe it still is for all I know. I like the result a lot. You don't have to do this, but give it a try on some rounded maple scrap wood or a botched neck and see how you like it.
Just my 2 cents worth. Hope you find it useful.
'boning wood',hey,seems you've turned a noun into an adjective
Well, I try to keep my end up.
Thank you, everyone! :)
One disadvantage is you really need a well ventilated space to do it.
I take mine to work and use a hood over the kiln to vent the fumes. (Kiln is OFF!)
I won't do it in the basement... Anymore ;)
On smaller builds like canjos, I use a water based poly brush on. No fumes, easy clean up.
What Eric said....
I use Tung Oil on maple and it works great. Follow the directions. Apply a little, rub it in, wait 10 mins and buff it out well. The next day do the same thing. Don't try to apply too much at once or it will stay sticky. It is OK to apply right over the fret wire since it will all buff off unlike a clear coat, varnish or polyurethane that will build up on the fret wire and have to be removed.