I don't know a lot about fretting but I'm a CNC service technician so I can tell you that 6 thou is about the thickness of 2 blonde human hairs, which is a huge gap in the work that I do.
Hi, could be the frets are budget versions from a manufacturer with low guilty control or your supplier changed their supplier who has a different size tang fret.
you could get a fret saw of a size to suit the frets.
The neck will only move under string tension if it is not too stiff, normally we make our neck as stiff as possible due to having no rod in the neck.
i use the crimping tool mentioned, but that's normally for Frets going into wide slots from refretted guitars or older guitars.
Does the supplier sell a saw to suit their fret wire? If you've only got the one size saw you may have to state the tang size needed with future purchases.
I have been gluing frets in for over &@$()0?! years. It's what I do.
A proper fret wire saw cuts a slot of.023". The fretwire you mention would not be loose in these slots, so I assume you used a different type of saw to cut them. Every kind of saw in the world has been used to cut fret slots, but only one works well. I paid $50 for mine from Lee Valley. It has saved me hundreds of dollars in aggravation.
Yes, I use the same circular fretting blade. The slot is for the tang size and the barbs are forced into the side of the slot for grip.
Are you using the same hardwood fretboard material?
On my first blade I bent it just a fraction (so that it wobbled) and caused a wider slot, I had to buy a new blade.
Yes. Same woods I've been using since I bought the blade. Like I said, the larger fret wire will fit tight in the same slots the smaller wire fits loosely in.
023" should be the perfect fit into a well cut slot. The barbs bite into the sides of the slot to hold them in place. It is also very critical that the frets be driven absolutely straight into the slots. They must be totally seated for best results.
Hi ARG, something I and many other builders and repairers do is to put a slight radius in the fret, or if fretting a radiused board apply a slight over radius.What this does is as you drive the fret down the radius flattens and pushes the ends of the fret sideways, this causes the barb to go in at a sideways angle at the ends, giving better grip.
It can't pop up as it may if driven straight in. But of course the barbs have to bite into the side of the slot to start with.
Good piece of information. The wire I buy comes in about a 12" diameter roll. This gives it a radius although it is being driven into a flat fretboard. Works well.