I have a question about my next CBG project. I have a paper covered box, and want to keep the paper intact. I'm worried that over time, the paper may eventually wear and start to peel loose. I was thinking of using spray shellac or something to protect it. Has anyone used this technique? Is it even needed?

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I don't have experience shellacing cigar boxes, but I have used varnish over top of a large paper lable on the end of an old tomato crate. This has worked very well and has caused the label to last for over 5 years now. I allowed the varnish to really penetrate (thick covering) the paper label for better adhesion. Maybe someone else around here with cigar box specific experience can shed some better light on this subject.
I just blow them over with rattlecan clear acrylic lacquer. Make sure the paper is soundly atached, and re-glue any loose corners before lacquering. Spray it in several light coats - don't be tempted to spray a really heavy first coat, as the lacquer can penetrate right thru' the paper and cause unsightly dark spots. I've made 130 plus CBGs and counting, so it does work!
I too like to use the spray can acrylic, I prefer the satin finish so it doesn't get all glossy. I've used it on everything from end tables to spray-painted parts, it's durable stuff.
I read somewhere that you can use decoupage glue like Mod Podge to protect the paper and gives a nice finish to it.
http://www.plaidonline.com/apmp.asp
says it acts as a "all-in-one glue, sealer and finish".
Hi Steve-

Just inviting you to consider another way of looking at this, think back to before you started with CBGs: which had more mojo--a pristine tele, or one that looked like it had been played for years? Perhaps it's due to my advancing age, but I like the well-worn look--the world can see that you (or the instrument you are playing) have been around the block.

Although I do make sure the paper is glued down well, I don't put a finish on my CBGs, and I play with fingerpicks. The paper on the face of the CBG where I play is starting to wear through to the wood, and there is crud (presumably an amalgam of sunblock, dirt and sweat) on the face where i rest my right forearm on the box. This adds to the patina. I will acknowledge that my main instrument is a 2 x 6 with a length of broom wire stretched between two nails (which is now starting to look a little beat-up--the antithesis of a highly finished instrument.

Best regards, Willie
Thanks for all the input guys! I think I'll go with the spray on acylic laquer. Just a couple of light coats to keep the worst of the dirt and sweat off the paper. Willie, I do like your advice too. That's why I'm not going to put the coating on heavy, like I said, just a couple of light coats. Now, if I happen to find a nice 100 year old cigar box at an antique shop somewhere, well that one will definatly be all natural.

Thanks again for all the advice. You guys rock!
I tested this this morning with some unused cans of spray lacquer that came with some car paint - seems to work a treat on paper cb labels, dries to a nice silky sheen, though will use wood/yacht varnish on my finished bare wood (behind the neck).

ChickenboneJohn said:
I just blow them over with rattlecan clear acrylic lacquer. Make sure the paper is soundly atached, and re-glue any loose corners before lacquering. Spray it in several light coats - don't be tempted to spray a really heavy first coat, as the lacquer can penetrate right thru' the paper and cause unsightly dark spots. I've made 130 plus CBGs and counting, so it does work!

Is polyurethane an acryllic?  I recently wrecked a pretty box spraying with poly.

Yeah...um, good luck with that.  ;)

In  the end I decided to do nothing to the paper. I figured its paper, so it will wear no matter what. I have to admit all of that mojo Shane has on his guitar has a certain appeal to it.

Try painting layers of PVA GLUE on your box,it dries see through and makes the box stronger.

try it out on a spare piece of paper first,so you can see what happens,

good luck

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