I'm baaaaack for a bit. Some might remember me, I've been gone quite some tims.

Long story short, I moved from CBG's to making full size guitars, mostly T-style. Made about 15-20 of them, even sold  3. I switched because my cbg skillset had sort of plateaued.

My build designs are still influenced on some by the cbg world, this experiment is one of them.

I'm building a reso-Tele. Paint can lid, floating brass bridge, semi-hollow, etc., you'll get it from the pix.

Problem is I have no idea how to put the reso stuff together......Help!

P.S., the hardboard guard is a template, not the real guard.

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That cone cover in pic 2 requires a biscuit bridge instead of that floating type bridge? If it’s sitting on the cone it will cancel out the reso effect? But, you can use that floating style bridge without the cone cover like in pic 3?


I meant , that floating bridge in pic 1 will work without the cone cover?  I think I referred to it as pic 3, the out of orderness of the pics got me confused?

Gads.. 2 posts lost. I forgot about that 'visual mode' fail on this board, so I'll try again...

I'm thinking the spun cone is more ridgid, I'm worried about string tension on the flat reso.

For that one, rather than a small round biscuit, can I make a strip of wood that rests on the biscuit 'island', but extends out to the raised inner edge of the seal fold without touching any of the cone between the island and the edge, and put the brass bridge on that? Think of something like a popsicle stick or the base of a floating tune-o-matic type bridge. To use a cover, I could cut a slot to clear the bridge/wood strip. Or the strip could be wide enough to support the brass bridge on the 'island', but not extend to the edge. Or am I swerving off into the weeds?

That hardboard guard is freaking awesome, I'd use that. :)

Well thank you very much. I might try that.

I have access to laser cutters, but thickness is limited. I use MDF for routing templates, but MDF is too thick, so I make a template (hardboard) to make a template (MDF).

Hi, and welcome back James. A number of things spring to mind but I will just throw this out there. With a metallic cone and a metallic bridge, you would get a metallic tone and good string vibration transfer. Would putting any type of wood in that system limit/restrict that metallic tone?

The "Dobro" spider bridge system uses a metal device, supporting the bridge, to carry the vibrations to the outside rim of the cone.
Taff

Is there any reason a hardtail bridge could not be set on the biscuit 'island'?

I wondered about that too, but every 'biscuit' i've seen is wood, so... I dunno.

However, steel flat stock is doable and I'll try that.

Hi again, you are correct the biscuit bridge is wood, but it is usually hard Maple as is the saddle, and it sits in the middle of the resonating area so works pretty efficiently.
The timber I was referring to was the part that covered the paint tin lid and sat on the perimeter of the “cone” [paint tin lid] with a bridge in the middle sitting on top of it. My thinking was that that part of the cone [outer edge] would not react to string vibration as well as if the bridge is sat in the middle of the cone itself.
A tailpiece puts downward force on the Cone, a hardtail bridge puts an upward force on the cone. Sorter trying to pull it out of its seating on the top.
Taff

Will this work?

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