I am getting ready for my second build and have a question. I have the fret board templates from CBGitty and used the 25-1/2" for my first build. What does changing the length do if I was to try a 24" or 24-1/2"?
Thanks
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Coming from the electric 6 string guitar world, I was used to the Fender 25.5" scale and the Gibson 24.5" to 24.75" scale. The 25.5" scale tends to have better harmonics while the Gibson scales were better with string bends and more warmth in tone.
Then I got a PRS type guitar with the 25" scale and everything felt right to me. I get good harmonics, warmer tone, good string bends without finger pain and the spacing between the frets "fits" my fingers well.
All my CBG builds have been 25" since then with the exception of a couple Baritones. I don't see myself making or buying anything in the guitar range over 25" scale. I'm even considering a short scale bass in the future.
The shorter scale guitars often require bigger gauge strings that can change the tone.
Hi, I was going through my photo library and came across a series of photos on the intonation subject.
In the photo you can see that I have not glued down the bridge at this stage. I string up the guitar, in this case just the two 'E's I move the bridge checking the intonation as I go on my tuner.
The devise that is also shown is one I made up to make the bridge moving task easier to fine tune.
Use the gauge strings and action height that you intend to play. I have different saddles with different areas of contact.
I've used it for years electric or acoustic.
Cheers Taff
I want to thank everyone for their input and advise. This is a wonderful community. My schedule is tough for the next couple of weeks but I will post pictures when the build is done.
Scale is always the length of the 'active' part of the string (nut to bridge before compensation).
Scale is always the length of the 'active' part of the string (nut to bridge before compensation).
The article referenced by Korrigan is very informative. It brings up a quandary I've had for a while, saying the best way to measure a guitars scale length its to measure to the 12th fret and double it, instead of the bridge because of the adjustability of the bridge (some). I get that, but then if you're building a guitar with a bridge with that much adjustment, how do you know exactly where to place it? The middle seems to make sense, but I've been burned a couple times doing that. Bummer trying to move a bridge.
If you're talking about a hardtail bridge that allows you to move the saddles to make the vibrating length of the string longer or shorter...
After my first failed attempt, taking the advice that I start with the saddles in the middle of their travel, and then running out of adjustment when I tried to set intonation, I now adjust the saddles almost all the way forward before mounting it.
The scale length is a theoretical measurement and your thinnest string will be closest to your chosen scale length with thicker strings needing to be slightly longer. If you place the saddles exactly at scale length with this kind of bridge knowing that all your adjustments will be to make the strings longer, never shorter, starting with them adjusted forward makes the most sense.
Korrigan, I took my first "Real" 34'' scale bass to a guitar tech for final setup. (photo). (I was also taking repair lessons from him). He asked me to move the bridge forward 1/4''. Took me 4 hours. Went to pick it up, he said, "can you put it back where it was?"!! This is why I appreciate your advice.
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