I just finished with building my first CBG (pictures below) - I'm thrilled with how it looks, but it's not letting me tune it up proper and I'm not thrilled with the noise from the pick-up. I can live with it not being electrified, if I can still play it acoustic. Right now, it's nice to look at, but useless as an instrument. Any advice or modifications that anybody can recommend for a complete n00b? BTW - The box was courtesy of the one and only Mr. Shane Speal, and the contest I won earlier in the year for promoting this site. I'd like to do him proud by finishing a project that actually makes music! I did the build with all hand-tools. I'm (obviously) not terribly experienced in woodworking, but I've always been fascinated with home-made instruments and thought this would be a fun way to get started. Thanks for any help anybody can offer!
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  • Okay, Thanks Everybody!

    I've put in shims around the tuners and added some small bolts to support the strings at the ball end, restrung, and it's playing great!

    I'll post new pictures and maybe a video of the final build sometime in the next few days. Thanks again!
  • My only question is about the wood used for the neck. If the neck isnt stiff enough it could also account for some of your problems. —B
  • His posts could definitely be more secure. But I was just saying that the gears (which can't be seen in photo #5) won't slip. That said, I'm all for doing it right and I agree with all your advice. Fill and drill or shim, use bushings, and use the other gear plate so that they're done right. I prefer to buy gears that come with bushings that thread into the gear housing myself.

    Alan Roberts said:
    BenBob said:
    You can look at his photo and see that they're not even close to slipping,

    Hmmm. I increased the zoom to about 200% on photo #5, and I'm afraid that Ken may have some serious problems
  • Shims underway - I saw that but wasn't sure of the best approach to correct - I will try some of these tricks and see if they work - Thanks!


    Alan Roberts said:
    BenBob said:
    You can look at his photo and see that they're not even close to slipping,

    Hmmm. I increased the zoom to about 200% on photo #5, and I'm afraid that Ken may have some serious problems, specially with string #1 at the bottom. That hole is HUGE. ....
  • BenBob said:
    You can look at his photo and see that they're not even close to slipping,

    Hmmm. I increased the zoom to about 200% on photo #5, and I'm afraid that Ken may have some serious problems, specially with string #1 at the bottom. That hole is HUGE. While a new tuner alone may or may not hold the string tight, as the CBG gets used and "broken in" the gears will loosen up. Ken, you need a bit of friction to help the tuners. When unstrung, were you able to wiggle the tuner back and forth, side to side? If so, you have trouble and the bushings alone MIGHT NOT be enough. If there's still wobble after the bushings are put in, you may have to do the following (in order of severity):
    1) glue some shims in. Flat toothpicks will do nicely. You're just trying to fill the empty space between tuner shaft and peg head
    2) if the shaft and bushing still wobbles, COMPLETELY fill the hole with a paste made of white glue and sawdust. Redrill the hole CAREFULLY
    3) if all else fails, the holes will have to be completely redone. Drill them out with a larger drill (say 1/4") and glue in a HARDWOOD dowel that fits the new hole exactly. CAREFULLY redrill new holes for your tuners.

    When you build your next guitar, here's some tips I've learned the hard way: always test for fit on a piece of scrap wood first. I use a drill press -- Crow uses a hand drill, but he's made more guitars on a busy evening than I have in my whole life -- I can get better results with a press than with a hand drill. Clamp the peg head and drill TWICE for each hole; first through-and-through with a drill bit just large enough for the tuner's peg then again with a bit just large enough for the bushing. The second time, don't drill all the way through, just enough to seat the bushing. Wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit to mark how deep you want to go, and drill until the wood touches the tape.

    Probably more complicated than it has to be, but that's me.
  • You can look at his photo and see that they're not even close to slipping, but I would expect there to be more play in the gear mounted backwards, requiring you to always tune "up to" the note (which you should always do anyway).
  • I seen/had this problem with cheap tuners. But not with good ones. Thats why I prefer to use good used tuners as apposed to cheap new ones. I even score a set of Spurzels for 5 bucks in perfect shape.

    Matt
  • @roger

    well i'll be. thanks for clearing that up, it makes perfect sense!!!
    i don't really work with any tuners, i use eye bolts... but soon CBGitty will carry them, and i'm looking forward to ordering a BUNCH!

    now i'll have some vital info when i go to use them the first time... THANKS!
  • No Crow when the tuner are mounted corecctly you have the tuning post being pulled toward the bridge causeing the grear to become tighter. The other way around after awhile the tuning post becomes lose nomatter what you do so yes the tuner should be turned around.
  • i wasn't aware that there was a proper way to mount tuners. guys here have mounted them all kinds of ways. it seems like the gears should do thier job no matter how they are installed..

    i've had poor luck with cheap open backed tuners exactly like these on my store-bought guitars. i was very upset. it's oddly satisfying and upsetting at the same time to know that i actually attain a higher degree of reliability with my eye bolt tuners than i do with a real guitar....

    LOL

    good luck man!
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