Ya, it's been a long time. I want to get three done. This is the hardest of all three. Thought it would be awesome to get the fun one first. This will be a piezo semi hollow guitar.
The guitar will be made in four layers. The top is 1/4 ply. The second layer down is 1/2 ply. Third layer is 3/4 maple from a table top. This layer will support the neck. Bottom layer is another layer of 1/4 ply.
First. Each layer will first be cut into 13 11/16 x 17 7/16 rectangles. Each piece of wood will get a 3x3 inch grid. There are three patterns. Each patter has 3x3 grid markings. So they will line up in the very same spot on each piece of wood.
The bottom layer gets two recessed plates. The will be cut out of and sit flush in the 1/4 ply. I'll have to start each with a knife cut. Then use a jig saw to finish them. These tow access plates will screw into the maple layer above them.
The maple layer will get three cavities cut out of it. One for the pots and jack. One for the three way toggle switch. And one large one on the left side, as your looking at it in a stand, of the guitar.
The 1/2 ply layer is mostly one large cavity. There will be support for the output jack. And a block of the same wood for under the bridge.
The top layer will get holes for four knobs, the output jack and three way switch. There will also be a sound hole.
At this point the four layers are still rectangles. I'll first glue the top two layers together. Then cut the neck pocket out of them. Then glue the rest to make one block. Once dry I'll cut the body shape out.
The two piezos. The one at the neck will be permanently sealed within the guitar. the only way to have access to it is to make a plate on the face of the guitar. Choosing looks over function. The second piezo will be under the bridge/
Two pics. The first pic is the maple layer. The second is the 1/2 ply along with the block for the bridge.
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Wiring diagram for RATdillac. There will be three volumes, two tones. The bridge will have it's own 500K volume and tone, Neck and mid will both have a 205K volume knob and they will both share one 250K tone. Each volume will be wired to be independent. So each pickup will only 'see' one volume. Still debating wether or not to wire in a master volume. There will be two five way switches. One for all three pickups and one just for the bridge humbucker. There is also one on,on,on, DPDT switch. This wiring will give me 44 different sounds out of one guitar. And is going to be a monster to complete. REALLY looking forward to this!!!!!
Information on this wiring
Nine way strat wiring
Independent volume wiring
5way superswitch humbucker
Drill press. I was on my very last 3 inch long slot. Just happen to think. "You know, I can set up a jig and cut these slots out with my jig saw..." Probably would have been faster than moving 1/16 of an inch at a time with a foster bit.
Was hoping to make one end permanent. so I wouldn't have to worry about it coming loose.
got an email today. Guess what pickups are coming. Yep, those Alexander Pribora pickups are now on their way here. So it's back to those going into this guitar. I'll now have three black pickups instead of one black and two white. Three switches came in today! The five way blade super switch, the regular five way blade switch. And the DPDT on on on switch. Yes, they are all going into this one build. But more on that when I get there.
Hi cause, what I would do is to run a nut on one end run some superglue in the thread, or centerpunch either side of the nut.
For slots in timber I drill a hole at each end of the intended slot and saw between the two. Nice clean slot with nice rounded ends. Works in my Perspex and aluminium jigs too.
Taff
Hi again, just thought I would show some of the slots I have cut the in way I mentioned above.
Oh no Paul. I WANT that out of phase Fender sound between the fist and second pickup. And between the mid and neck. The wiring in this guitar is going to be off the wall crazy. But more on that once I get things in place.
Ater getting off work late last night I was in the garage till 6:30 in the morning making slots in wood with a foster bit. I'll be going back to the garage to finish those up tonight. Then I'll send em all up and spray paint them. Going to use EVA foam as pads on the business end of the clamps. As far as the hex head bolts go. they be expensive. I can get a six foot 3/8 threaded rod for $6. I'd need two rods. Or I could buy 6" hex head 3/8 bolt for $1.80 each. Going to go to youtube and see just how hard it is to drill a hole through a 3/8 rod. Stick a pin in it to keep it from going through the clamp. I'll be using oversized washers so the pin wont get at the wrong angle and go through the slot.
Good carbide or titanium bits will cut right through. Hard to keep the holes straight unless your using a drill press and a vise though.
Hi, file a small flat on the rod first gives the drill a better start. If it was me I normally use a nut on both ends, saves a lot of work.
Taff
That's a very good suggestion Taff.
It's 7AM and I still haven't gone to bed after working all night. Got the box of pups yesterday. Each pickup has a 5.8K output. So I'll have to use the old fashioned pickup hight to even out the volume. According to the Fender web site the mid pickup should have a lower output. But that my be because the out of phase sound itself.
Got some different Jig saw blades as well. A set of Bosch 20 tpi "Clean for Wood". Supposed to cut really slow with these thinner blades. But have the power almost all the way up. Really like what the other blades did for me. If these do the same I'll save em for tighter curves.
Plan on banging as much of this guitar out this weekend as possible. Got to get to bed first...: )
I always set pickup height by ear. It has never failed for any pickup. Start at the lowest and adjust upwards til it sounds best.
Made a note on those blades for a future purchase.
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