I think many eventually come to a point where they want to start fretting their guitars.  That's where I have arrived.  Not knowing much about the procedure, I pretty much jumped into it with both feet.  

Finding fret wire was easy--it's actually inexpensive.  Where I ran into trouble was when trying to find the right saw for cutting the fret slots.  It's just natural for me to try saving a few bucks, but sometimes that inclination works against me, and this is a perfect example.

I first went to Amazon in search of a cheap saw that would serve the purpose of cutting the fret slots.  Twice I thought I had found the right saws, twice I was terribly disappointed--either the cut was too wide or it was too narrow.  The tang on the fret wire is .023", and apparently the fret slot must also be .023". Taking hints from a YouTube video, I went to the hardware store and bought yet another inexpensive saw, and again I was disappointed.  I had purchased three saws and none worked.

So here is the lesson I learned: sometimes it's just better to pay the extra money than keep banging your head against the wall trying to save a few bucks.  I now have ordered a "fret saw." from StewMac.  What could have cost around $31.00 has actually cost around $60.00 when I account for the three saws I purchased earlier. 

If I were to advise anyone on fretting, it would be to buy a saw that is intended for fretting.  Don't waste your time trying to find a cheap replacement.

StewMac Fret Saw

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Just reverse the blade so it`s cutting towards the slot mark. Also make sure to square up the blade to the table. I use an exact square block behind the piece I`m slotting.

I used the same method. Works great! I put the blade in backwards so that I can pull the fretboard toward me. You can see your pencil marks better that way. The blade I used cuts the slots just tight enough that it would hurt your fingers to press them in. Just a couple taps and the fretwire is set. I use a 1" wide tabletop belt sander to dress up the ends. You have to be careful though. That sander will eat up those overhanging fret-ends QUICK. After the fret-end bevels are done I use a drywall sanding block (sponge) to round over any sharp spots that are left. Works like a charm!

Coopers saw blade?  I have a scroll saw that uses the 5" pin ends.  The 20 TPI seem too loose and the 25 TPI too tight.  At least on my flat economy bulk medium/medium fret wire from cbgitty. Any thoughts?

If you read through this thread,you'll find many ways to fix your problem,don't get fixed on t p i,the main issue is cut width or 'kerf',gitty's medium wire needs a .023 in slot width,i'm sure you can get a scroll saw blade to suit,i and many others here have cut slots with a scroll saw,i prefer using a handsaw though,but the kerf is all important,one thing that might be worth checking is how you present the wood to the blade,it only takes a little instability against a powered blade to open a .023 slot to .025 or more which will tend to release your frets a bit

i think it was the brand.  Olson blade at 20 TPI was way too loose.  I tried a Bosch 20 TPI and for whatever reason it seemed to work better but still not perfect.  The fret wire was that cheaper bulk by the pound flat stuff and I think thaat it is a hair shy allso because when I used the nicer curved fret wire with the Olson 20 TPI it was snug as a bug in a rug.  I just wanted to buy cheaper stuff and it bit me in the butt a little.  I was hoping the cooper blade was the miracle fix but i'd never head of it.

A fret slotting saw is the one hand tool that it really isn't worth trying to save money on. A purpose made saw will do the job accurately, is easy to use and will last ages - I've cut 100-150 fretboards with each of the 2  saws I've had. I like them so much I decided to stock them in my online shop.

I think this is the saw Glenn is referring to.  I've used it on every fret job I've done and it works great. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_375303-281-213104_0__?productId=3612248

I use a japanese saw I got at harbor freight for 10 bucks and it is perfect. I have cut all of my fret slots with it and it still seems sharp as new.  It is the only cheap tool I have not regretted buying! .023 kerf, I get all my fret wire from Gitty!

Got a pic?

The 12" flush cut Japanese saw has worked great for my fret jobs.  For 8 bucks I am amazed at how sharp it still is .

Harbor Freight, no longer carries the 'correct' size saw for fret slotting, at least not in my town. The manufacture is different and Harbor Freight said that it doesn't matter to them who makes it, just as long as it is a flush cut saw. The Lowes saw works great!

It is that first one Wayfinder posted below.

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