Hi,
When ordering everything I needed I neglected to get some ferrules for the tail to fit the strings through. I was just planning on drilling holes in the tail for the strings. What options can be found at a place like HD or lowes or even someplace like michaels? Is there anything out there I could just go pick up?
Thanks for any ideas!
Mike
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I have used thin copper tubeing. Drill the hole at an angle towards the headstock. Make the saw cut to match the angle of the hole you just drilled. Works ok. But I have since started using a brass plate screwed to the back. The neck stops at the back, inside of the box. Put a little back curve on it, cut slots and you have a quick change string changing method. You don't have to unthread the whole string. Simply loosen the tuners and pot the string out of the slot.
I try to be a bit of a repurposing nut. The tail piece is part of an old SS noodle fork. The nut and bridge are made of a piece of elk rib and 2 Walking Liberty 1/2 dollars
Those are good ideas and methods. But I prefer another route. I get a kick out of cutting simple tail pieces out of sheet metal. A bonus to this is that one or two screws they fasten and unfasten the tail piece to and from the box.
On my recent tenor build it took me 3 times to get the nut and saddle heights close to just right. I just left the strings on the tuners, removed the tailpiece and made my adjustments. Then got the strings untangled and screwed the tail piece back on.
I start out with cheap strings (Musician's Gear) from Musician's Friend. They are pretty decent. Then later when all is set to suit me, I may switch to some better strings from the Anonymous Pick or Gitty.
Same deal if you use a hinge tail piece.
If you lack sheet metal, use a tin can. Campbell's Pork & Beans cans are quite musical.
I really like to embed a fret or finishing nail in the tailpiece then drill the string holes right behind it. The string breaks over the fret wire or nail and doesn't cut into the wood. You can do this if the strings go through the box instead of an extended tailpiece section too. I have also cut off a short section of angle aluminum and drilled the string holes through that.
Just a couple things to think of instead of eyelets and similar.
Replies
I have used thin copper tubeing. Drill the hole at an angle towards the headstock. Make the saw cut to match the angle of the hole you just drilled. Works ok. But I have since started using a brass plate screwed to the back. The neck stops at the back, inside of the box. Put a little back curve on it, cut slots and you have a quick change string changing method. You don't have to unthread the whole string. Simply loosen the tuners and pot the string out of the slot.
I try to be a bit of a repurposing nut. The tail piece is part of an old SS noodle fork. The nut and bridge are made of a piece of elk rib and 2 Walking Liberty 1/2 dollars
CBCstring retainer.JPG
I thought I'd pull a couple pics out of my CBN albums.
Angle aluminum
Fretwire on box
Mojobone Works Tailpiece
On Ebay you can buy coloured bike spoke nipples in red,blue and gold.They're 14 mm long but you can probably cut them down to a shorter length....
On my recent tenor build it took me 3 times to get the nut and saddle heights close to just right. I just left the strings on the tuners, removed the tailpiece and made my adjustments. Then got the strings untangled and screwed the tail piece back on.
I start out with cheap strings (Musician's Gear) from Musician's Friend. They are pretty decent. Then later when all is set to suit me, I may switch to some better strings from the Anonymous Pick or Gitty.
Same deal if you use a hinge tail piece.
If you lack sheet metal, use a tin can. Campbell's Pork & Beans cans are quite musical.
I really like to embed a fret or finishing nail in the tailpiece then drill the string holes right behind it. The string breaks over the fret wire or nail and doesn't cut into the wood. You can do this if the strings go through the box instead of an extended tailpiece section too. I have also cut off a short section of angle aluminum and drilled the string holes through that.
Just a couple things to think of instead of eyelets and similar.
yeah that works real good, you can drill from the bottom of that fret slot and tunnel a ground connection up from under, I've done it a bunch of times
heres one
think i pinched that from Dianne Chicago or maybe Tiny
Me too on the stash!
I like that little stash compartment.
excellent thanks Eric. I plan on doing multiple builds so want to try different options. thanks again!
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