I have dyed some necks black in the past with good results, now I have a poplar fretboard that I want to change to black to match a build in progress, then clear coat.
See any reason why this wouldn't work aside from the obvious fret wire to wipe down?
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I have used the steel wool and vinegar for quite some time on my customers custom picture framing and it works quite well. Sometimes when first applied it almost has a purple tint but then darkens to sometimes dark gray and sometimes to black.
I have also started experimenting with Keda dyes from Ebay. Haven't tried the black yet but the red works well. Looks great on maple, they have a wide range of colors and one can mix them to make custom colors.
Some really good input here. I have used the shoe polish method to rejuvenate amplifier Tolex with great results. Never thought about using it on wood.
I have had great success using cheap black spray paint as wood stain... hose the board down, grab a rag dampened with mineral spirits and wipe most of the paint away... it works great... let dry and add 2-3 coats of poly, it looks awesome...
I have used fabric dye on wood in the past. Works fairly well. Also the vinegar and steel wool trick is great for achieving black. As always do a test piece first.
Milt - on woods like poplar and pine , i find you can get from a grey-ish barn board to a coffee colored result from the vinegar and steel wool process . but oak etc . will turn black easier . (depending on # of coats / soaking time etc) .
Milt Haselmire > the anonymous pickApril 11, 2017 at 11:12am
Pick
You are the master of this method and are absolutely correct. Guess I should have mentioned oak works best. I believe this is due to the tannic acid content. It also works pretty well on walnut and mahogany.
If anybody doesn't know the process. Pour some vinegar into a container. I use glass. Throw in a chunk of steel wool, let it sit for awhile (overnight?) then wipe or brush it on.
I'd add another step - pour the mixture thru a coffee filter into a second jar to get rid of any little pieces of steel. With some of the oak pieces I did it raised the grain quite a bit giving a rougher feel, others only darkened and stayed pretty smooth. Also a test piece I never finished developed rust spots over time so be sure to put a finish over it (pieces with tru-oil never have shown rust spots).
Replies
steel wool and apple cider vinegar
instant coffee.
(take in the account of the flame jobs . )
and starting with pure white new pine
I have used the steel wool and vinegar for quite some time on my customers custom picture framing and it works quite well. Sometimes when first applied it almost has a purple tint but then darkens to sometimes dark gray and sometimes to black.
I have also started experimenting with Keda dyes from Ebay. Haven't tried the black yet but the red works well. Looks great on maple, they have a wide range of colors and one can mix them to make custom colors.
Plus one on the viinegar and steel wool
Torrefaction is my other favoured method. Wrap in foil bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes.
200 Celsius or 400 f should do it.
Some really good input here. I have used the shoe polish method to rejuvenate amplifier Tolex with great results. Never thought about using it on wood.
I've had good results with liquid shoe polish that comes with the foam applicator, same method as yours John, many colours available
I have used fabric dye on wood in the past. Works fairly well. Also the vinegar and steel wool trick is great for achieving black. As always do a test piece first.
Milt - on woods like poplar and pine , i find you can get from a grey-ish barn board to a coffee colored result from the vinegar and steel wool process . but oak etc . will turn black easier . (depending on # of coats / soaking time etc) .
Pick
You are the master of this method and are absolutely correct. Guess I should have mentioned oak works best. I believe this is due to the tannic acid content. It also works pretty well on walnut and mahogany.
If anybody doesn't know the process. Pour some vinegar into a container. I use glass. Throw in a chunk of steel wool, let it sit for awhile (overnight?) then wipe or brush it on.
I'd add another step - pour the mixture thru a coffee filter into a second jar to get rid of any little pieces of steel. With some of the oak pieces I did it raised the grain quite a bit giving a rougher feel, others only darkened and stayed pretty smooth. Also a test piece I never finished developed rust spots over time so be sure to put a finish over it (pieces with tru-oil never have shown rust spots).
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