My last few builds have had the back of the neck rounded off using my router. I am wondering if folks here really think it is necessary, or if I could just sand the edges and round them a bit and call it good.
Thoughts?
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I do radius the neck. The curve depends on the width thickness and just feel I want for my hand. I have used a small plane, sandpaper, and just recently, a horse file. That file is wide and long and has strong teeth for a deep cut, then followed by sandpaper, I rather like it.
I'm not an expert - I'm somewhere between my first and second/third CBG, but I use stringed instruments a lot.
IMHO a fully rounded back of the neck is not (always) necessary.
The facts: I use my thumb to press the lowest string in its lowest positions, but as I go towards the higher frequenties ("up the neck") my hand twists to "thumb support" position.
So I shaped the lower part ("tuners side") of the neck, leaving the upper part ("box side") square-ish. I smoothed the neck with a "sanding pad", which shaped the neck even more "after my hand". For a 6-stringer I'd probably reduce the overall thickness of the lower part of the neck as well.
Okay, all you neck-shapers: how thick do you leave your necks? I recently shaped my first with a spokeshave, and while it looks nice, it seems a bit... thin. I was carving it down from a homemade laminated 2x2; I followed the technique of rasping down at the first and 18th fret lengths to 1/2" and 5/8", respectively, and then shaving between the two grooves.
Perhaps I should start with a smaller block of wood next time?
Nice looking neck, Michael. I notice you shape the heel with a rasp, have you ever used chisels? I'm considering buying a decent chisel set.
MichaelS said:
I just added some shots of a neck being made, check it out on my page its in number 9 photo album. And how do I get a pic to show in this window?? I can cut wood but...
First one did the router, second one did the router and then filed with some coarse files. This lead to bandsaw the profile, router, coarse file. For the same thickness a "rounded neck is much better feel in the hand well worth the effort. Also it keeps the neck from being top heavy for the light box.
I think unless you are cranking them out for sale a little more time on the neck is worth it.
Course if you router the wrong side it is a bit more work to make inserts glue them in and re sand/shape the neck before routering the right side, but this sort of side trip improves your critical thinking woodworking skills and custom look. Not to mention when people ask you what is that part of the neck for. Yah, chuck it out you are thinking, too much of a cheapscate to use it as fire wood, all part of the adventure.
Cheers Ron.
Cheers Ron.
I just added some shots of a neck being made, check it out on my page its in number 9 photo album. And how do I get a pic to show in this window?? I can cut wood but...
I start with a 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" piece I make myself from large stock my dad has. When finished I get a neck with the heel and an angled head built in. Just before the heel its 1" thick, up near the nut its about 3/4" thick. These have no fretboard added, I just use the one piece. I just made 2 this week, I'll see if I can add a picture. Everyone likes picture right?
Scotty C. said:
Okay, all you neck-shapers: how thick do you leave your necks? I recently shaped my first with a spokeshave, and while it looks nice, it seems a bit... thin. I was carving it down from a homemade laminated 2x2; I followed the technique of rasping down at the first and 18th fret lengths to 1/2" and 5/8", respectively, and then shaving between the two grooves.
Perhaps I should start with a smaller block of wood next time?
Okay, all you neck-shapers: how thick do you leave your necks? I recently shaped my first with a spokeshave, and while it looks nice, it seems a bit... thin. I was carving it down from a homemade laminated 2x2; I followed the technique of rasping down at the first and 18th fret lengths to 1/2" and 5/8", respectively, and then shaving between the two grooves.
Perhaps I should start with a smaller block of wood next time?
Iggy, I radius all the necks make I bought a spoke shave with a curved blade works well, you just have to take your time. Take a look at my pics they show it pretty well. I also use a lot of 80 grit to smooth it. FIrst insturment I build I used the router, but it did not round it enough for me. By hand works and it really does not take too much time. Radius until if feels good in your hands.
Replies
My .02$ (i should probably keep for myself).
I'm not an expert - I'm somewhere between my first and second/third CBG, but I use stringed instruments a lot.
IMHO a fully rounded back of the neck is not (always) necessary.
The facts: I use my thumb to press the lowest string in its lowest positions, but as I go towards the higher frequenties ("up the neck") my hand twists to "thumb support" position.
So I shaped the lower part ("tuners side") of the neck, leaving the upper part ("box side") square-ish. I smoothed the neck with a "sanding pad", which shaped the neck even more "after my hand". For a 6-stringer I'd probably reduce the overall thickness of the lower part of the neck as well.
-WY
Scotty C. said:
MichaelS said:
I think unless you are cranking them out for sale a little more time on the neck is worth it.
Course if you router the wrong side it is a bit more work to make inserts glue them in and re sand/shape the neck before routering the right side, but this sort of side trip improves your critical thinking woodworking skills and custom look. Not to mention when people ask you what is that part of the neck for. Yah, chuck it out you are thinking, too much of a cheapscate to use it as fire wood, all part of the adventure.
Cheers Ron.
Cheers Ron.
9neckrough.jpg
Scotty C. said:
Perhaps I should start with a smaller block of wood next time?
Joe
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