I seem to have an issue with necks not keeping flat/straight.  I usually use the 1x2 neck wood and double up for the heel into the box.  Woods I have readily available is red oak and poplar (which is ridiculous since I live in the furniture capitol of the US...not IKEA!). I then use a .25 inch fret board.  I have a current build where nearly every fret buzzes and I have nearly worn out the hard-tail (HT) bridge with adjustments.  It seems to get better as I fret down the neck near the the 12th.  All frets are level.  This is my 1st HT bridge thinking I could get easy adjustments from that.  String height is about 2-3mm at the nut and is larger at the 12th depending on HT bridge setting.  I have moved the neck a bit for back angle with not much difference.

I tried to use lighter strings, thicker necks carved from 2x2, but those aren't as comfortable.

What wood types are y'all using?

Would I have a more stable neck if I laminated different wood vertically for the neck?

I would rather not go a truss rod route, since thousands are made without one and because of the cost.

I realize I may be having a couple issues at the same time.  Any suggestions? 

You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!

Join Cigar Box Nation

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • Are you starting with a truly straight and true neck before you put the frets in? It sounds obvious, but after gluing on the fretboard you need to level it and check it with a good heavy straight edge. You say that all the frets are level but how are you checking this? After you have installed the frets you need to check them  with straight edge to look at the overall neck  and use a fret rocker to identify if you have any high or low frets. If necessary you may need to dress all the frets to get them level and reprofile them. 

  • Hi BrianQ, you should see the case it looks like it was left out in a rainstorm and forgotten.

    Taff

  • Fingers? Are they still there!!! I’m sure that was a case of sitting in the case somewhere, being forgotten? 

  • Doctor, I'm having trouble....my fingers keep bleeding, and my guitar plays out of tune...But my neck is very straight.
    Taff
    8829754485?profile=RESIZE_710x

  • Hi, you are correct in saying that a Bowd up neck will not cause fret buzz Carl, but l do see many bowed up necks with frets that buzz. This is normally caused by uneven frets. In this case creating less relief has to be done in conjunction with other work, to overcome fret buzzing.

    Taff

  • Dale, this is how you post a pic, but don’t forget to click the HTML Editor before you click Add?

    8828924500?profile=RESIZE_710x

  • Dale, major glitch in the system 

    8828847073?profile=RESIZE_710x

  • I know what neck relief is & that a truss rod is used to adjust it & counteract the string pull.  I do all my own setups & adjustments on all of my guitars. 

    Not enough neck relief will cause string buzz,  Too much makes it hard to play.  I have never witnessed too much neck relief from string tension cause string buzz.

    Maybe it is bowing back, but since he tried lighter strings to fix it, it read like he was getting a concave condition from the string tension.

  • Hi, further to BrianQs comment before adjustable truss rods solid bars were used. No adjustment. I used bars in my early guitars. One I still play, over 30years on, still has the same low string height it had when first built. The neck is still flat.

    The action does change with help from Mother Nature, but I have two different height saddles to deal with seasonal changes.

    I have use Radiata pine for a neck, as an experiment. It was 7/8" x 11/4" wide with a 1/4" fingerboard, I also inlaid a hardwood beam in a slot under the board. It has stayed stable and straight for two years now.

    Loosely fitted frets can allow a neck to bow up easier. Conversely, over tight frets can contribute to back bow. Sorry to ramble on.
    Taff

This reply was deleted.