Deep Thoughts with Ben

So I'm working on my first CBG and there are a few things I'd like to flesh out on here if anyone would like to help. The first thing is that I've got a maple neck I'm working with. I finally got the portion under the soundboard down to the level I wanted but boy was it a hackjob. I was wondering what techniques other people had for doing this (I haven't gotten to the headstock yet). I used a combination of a 4-in-hand file, 60 grit on my Dremel, and finally one of the cutting bits on my Dremel used latterally. I'm thinking about getting the Planing attachment that takes off 1/64" on each pass and thought that it might actually be faster and cleaner that way. The other thing was that I'm planning to put in a pup that I've already wound and actually sounds pretty good. I remember seeing somewhere that someone shielded the entire inside of the box with copper tape. I was wondering if I could build a smaller cavity around the pup and just shield that. Also, if I did that, any suggestions on where to ground to? Finally, I have a radioshack center-off toggle switch. I was planning to experiment with wiring the pup and piezo to the swith so that I could (hopefully) get pup, piezo, or pup/piezo. Any suggestions? Thanks!

pRS1C-2160411w345.jpg

You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!

Join Cigar Box Nation

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • Hey Ben, have a look at the photo for an idea I stole from someone else for trimming that awkward bit under the soundboard... I cut the 2 extremeties with a hack saw to the correct depth, then I used a 22mm drill to get rid of eveything between, then just sanded it by hand... 5 minutes work. Helps to have a line along the edge to guage the depth though :o)
    Cant help much with the electronics, other than to say have a look at the '5 way switch, single coil, humbucker AND piezo pickup' thread I started a while back in Teds Mad Scientist group - general concensus was that the piezo would be much quieter so some compensating would need to be done. Havnt got round to that project yet...
    Good luck
    Ben

    DSCF2288.JPG

  • I used a router notching my first neck. The second on I did on the table saw with dado blade. If you prefer hand tools a good method would be with a chisel and mallet. The same way the craftsmen do door hinge insets. Make a bunch of vertical cuts real close together with the chisel to the depth you want. Than cut the notch out running the chisel horizontally. Witha little practice you will have a good clean notch.

    Can't help on the electronic, I know nuth'n.
  • Grrrr... the revolution has been co-opted? I kind of hope your joking Christian about Fender and Gibson getting into the act - but you probably aren't. I'm not sure i even want to look at them.

    Christian Beshore said:
    i'm using expensive mogami wiring that i removed from my old studio 12 years ago. i have enough to make about 2000 cbgs,or more. it is three conductor w/sheilding. i've found the most important reduction in hum is to make sure your bridge/strings are well grounded. also, i've never potted a pickup, i think if they are wound tight enough you don't get microphonics, which i think is the main reason people pot their pups.

    if everything is grounded well and you use sheilded wire, i don't see the need for all that inner copper sheilding. i'm almost positive ted crocker does not sheild the guitar itself either. none of my fenders or gibsons are full of copper for that matter.

    yeah, you should check out the new gibson and fender cbg's they're really cool for mass produced cbg's..............................................................................................
  • I did the first few builds by hand - mostly rasps. A friend helped me do up a few blanks using his Dado blade on his table saw. This took care of the under the body bevel and the headstock.
  • Good to know. Thanks for your input!

    Arnar said:
    This might not be much help but I have a few switches like this one and be careful when soldering wires to them because the plastic tends to melt, I have ruined a couple of switches like that :P
  • Thanks, I think that sounds like a good plan for the next one.

    Allen Pape said:
    For notching out the neck for the box, i cut several times 1/4 inch or so apart and "POP" the pieces out with a flat screwdriver then pretty it up a little with a file. I don't cut my notches quite as deep as i need them and rasp it down the rest of the way. Im sure there's better ways but it works for me. Usually takes about 10 or 15 minutes. I hope this helps!!
  • This might not be much help but I have a few switches like this one and be careful when soldering wires to them because the plastic tends to melt, I have ruined a couple of switches like that :P
  • For notching out the neck for the box, i cut several times 1/4 inch or so apart and "POP" the pieces out with a flat screwdriver then pretty it up a little with a file. I don't cut my notches quite as deep as i need them and rasp it down the rest of the way. Im sure there's better ways but it works for me. Usually takes about 10 or 15 minutes. I hope this helps!!
  • Thanks for the advice. Do you use coax cable or have ridiculously short runs or just do it pretty normally just without shielding? Nice examples and nice pups.
This reply was deleted.