What's the best method of cutting down the part of the board for the headstock? I tried to do it with a small hacksaw tonight and almost ruined a perfectly good oak 1x2. I need to shave it down to 9/16ths for my tuner bushings to fit right. About all I have for cutting tools are 2 hacksaws, a handheld skillsaw and a Dremel. The handsaw didn't work, so I'm thinking I need to get blades for the skillsaw. However, I'm not sure if that will make a straight cut either.

How do you guys get a smooth, straight cut for your headstocks?

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William, with your tool set, if I had a router attachment for the dremel, that's what I'd use...

I have a bandsaw that gets a lot of action around the headstock..

the best,

Wichita Sam
I would love to have a bandsaw and a table saw. No money and a garage full of yardsale items keeps that from happening though. Truthfully, if I had those two, I would probably do a lot more woodworking. I miss doing that with my grandfather. My uncles ended up with all his tools though.

How do I keep the Dremel from going too deep? Seems like eyeballing it would be risky at best.

Wichita Sam said:
William, with your tool set, if I had a router attachment for the dremel, that's what I'd use...

I have a bandsaw that gets a lot of action around the headstock..

the best,

Wichita Sam
Dremel makes a "router attachement" that controls the depth of the cut pretty well. I use it of do some engraving in wood tops from time to time... It will be a little rough, but easier to smooth out with rasp and sandpaper.

the best,

Sam


William Bannier said:
I would love to have a bandsaw and a table saw. No money and a garage full of yardsale items keeps that from happening though. Truthfully, if I had those two, I would probably do a lot more woodworking. I miss doing that with my grandfather. My uncles ended up with all his tools though.

How do I keep the Dremel from going too deep? Seems like eyeballing it would be risky at best.

Wichita Sam said:
William, with your tool set, if I had a router attachment for the dremel, that's what I'd use...

I have a bandsaw that gets a lot of action around the headstock..

the best,

Wichita Sam
take your hack saw blade , file the back side (edge) flat. use it as a scraper. you will be amazed at what it can do.
zero budget method saw grooves across and break away with a chisel if u don't have a chisel
I, too, have only a dremel and a big drill. I work with 1/2 x 2 for the neck/head and put on a fingerboard of 1/4 x 2. Not quite enough angle for a good break over the nut without a little extra, like string trees or a scarf join so the head is angled. But the tuners go in nice and easy. And a string tree you make yourself lets you reinvent the wheel with stuff laying around.

I was working with 1x2s for a while, but it was just too much damn work to carve them down where they need to be thinner (like that annoying notch to go under the lid for the box -- I did that once, and then once more to prove how much of a pain it was -- slow learner, me) and never again.

That being said, 1x2 lets you make a slotted peghead! I might give that a try in the weeks ahead. You'll need a "real" drill for that one, though. The Dremel only goes up to 1/4" drill bits, but there may be an attachment I have not considered.
Another way around this, for those of us with no band saw and no table saw, is to make a dogleg neck. 1/2" stock for the main part of the neck. Attach a fingerboard on the top (1/4, 3/8, 1/2) and attach the thickness you need for your tuners to the back of the head. There is an overlap of something like an inch. This means you might have to move your nut down the fingerboard a bit, so you don't bash your hand into it when you play on fret #1 (which for me is never). You can see here my "nut" - really a zero fret - is right at the end. MIght have been better to scootch it down a bit.

I have made a jig using a router and two boards, each board the same thickness as the neck. Then put two "stops" on the boards so the router does not go past where it needs to cut. That way, I can set a depth, route out in one shot. The boards act as a floor so the router does not "fall" when there is no material left.

I used this technique to make folding fishing nets.

Mentioned above, are a table saw (really the best idea I know) or a band saw, but that would require making parallel cuts the same depth or try to rip the recess down. Either way tho will work. Depends on your woodworking skills.

Wichita Sam said: Dremel makes a "router attachement" that controls the depth of the cut pretty well.


I dug out my Dremel and all it's attachments this morning. I actually bought one of those router attachments when I bought the Dremel. Unfortunately, it doesn't fit my model of Dremel tool. The tool it's self apparently has it's own height guide attachment though. Now I have to go find router bits for it. Turns out I only bought grinding and buffing attachments.

I know... I'm strange. I buy tools and then I don't use them. When something finally happens that I really need the tool, I have to find it and make sure I have all the right attachments. I love tools. I just don't have a need for them very often.
Hey,

I secretly believe that the attraction is that it give us another excuse to buy T-O-O-L-S!!!!!

the best,

Sam


William Bannier said:

Wichita Sam said: Dremel makes a "router attachement" that controls the depth of the cut pretty well.


I dug out my Dremel and all it's attachments this morning. I actually bought one of those router attachments when I bought the Dremel. Unfortunately, it doesn't fit my model of Dremel tool. The tool it's self apparently has it's own height guide attachment though. Now I have to go find router bits for it. Turns out I only bought grinding and buffing attachments.

I know... I'm strange. I buy tools and then I don't use them. When something finally happens that I really need the tool, I have to find it and make sure I have all the right attachments. I love tools. I just don't have a need for them very often.
I just file it down and shape it with a bastard rasp and then sand smooth once I've got it thin enogh to fit the tuning pegs. It usually takes about 10 minutes for Poplar, 15 or 20 for oak. Works up a little sweat and I usually wear some leather gloves to avoid friction burns on my pickin fingers.
I am busy at the moment! But i will take some pics of my DIY Dremel router stand.

William Bannier said:
I would love to have a bandsaw and a table saw. No money and a garage full of yardsale items keeps that from happening though. Truthfully, if I had those two, I would probably do a lot more woodworking. I miss doing that with my grandfather. My uncles ended up with all his tools though.

How do I keep the Dremel from going too deep? Seems like eyeballing it would be risky at best.

Wichita Sam said:
William, with your tool set, if I had a router attachment for the dremel, that's what I'd use...

I have a bandsaw that gets a lot of action around the headstock..

the best,

Wichita Sam

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