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  • Skeesix said:
    Maybe a different sized blade for your coping saw?

    It turns out I wasn't tightening the handle far enough; so when i would cut, the blade would come loose and the azimuth fell out of sync with the other end. Live and learn.
  • i muse drum sanders on a drill press...dremel ones will work also but will take longer
  • Maybe a different sized blade for your coping saw?
  • Use a saber saw with a thin blade it works great.
  • I use any number of saws i have laying around depending on what I want the head stock to look like. I usually go for the coping saw or the miter saw for good straight cuts.
  • I use a hand held electric sabre saw with a narrow fine tooth blade, my headstocks are not really fancy but they have a few curves and it works fine. I also use the same saw for the F holes in my box's. Its a handy tool to have if you don't have one.
  • Make a template out of 1/4" hardboard shaped the way you want. Then apply that to the head (no glue. Clamp) and cut around that. OR saw REAL slow. Also cut about 1/64 to 1/32 over then sand down with 220 grit sandpaper.

    My headstocks are about 9/16" thick.

    There is also another method that uses old drill bits or tools stock as router bits off a drill press if you have one.

    -WY
  • I usually plane my head stock down to about a half inch before cutting out. With a coping saw that has a solid frame and a good blade, it should be fairly easy to cut along a decorative line. I know finish carpenters that us a coping saw to back cut hardwood miter joints. These are as thick as any headstock and they are doing seamless looking finish work.
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