Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mark Bliss on April 22, 2011 at 6:16am

The first thing I would check is the les pauls actual scale length. Measure from the fingerboard edge of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret and multiply by 2.

The reasoning is that over the years Gibson has used four different actual scale lengths, but yet called them all 24 3/4"

Review this page: http://www.stewmac.com/scalelengthtone.html

 

Hope that helps,

Mark

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Permalink Reply by Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates on April 22, 2011 at 6:23am

Amen Mark. Funny thing about scale lengths -- When I build and fret the neck, I find that even tho I use a scale (in this case 24 3/4") and I can measure 12 3/8" at the 12th fret, the scale is never exactly 24 3/4". It might be longer or shorter. Depends. Yes, I know the reason but odd tho still.

 

Bill, Just trust what you did. OH and if you printed a template off onto paper, keep in mind that any printer won't print at exactly 100%. You will have to fudge sometimes. I print off a series of marks from a graphics program, measure, get the difference and print off at the correct percentage. For me its usually 98.5% or scale the image up 101.523%

 

And its a good idea to measure in mm instead of inches.

 

-WY

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Permalink Reply by Bill Harbour on April 22, 2011 at 8:54am

No template...I used a tape measure and an engineering scale broken down in tenths of an inch (and high magnification to see the middle of the marks).  For each fret, I measure to the inch from the nut with the tape measure, then in 10ths of an inch with the scale to mark the exact position of the fret. 

 

The calculator says the 18th fret should be at 16 inches.  On my Les Paul Studio, the 18th fret is a little more than a 16th of an inch short of 16 inches.  I believe my Les Paul was set up with Gibsons Plek system at the factory.  Maybe that accounts for some of the difference. 

 

Well...since everyone is using the fret calculator, I'll trust it and keep the frets as calculated.  I'll be playing slide with it anyway. 

 

I'll purchase a tape measure in mm for the next guitar.

 

Thanks for the suggestions!!

Bill

Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:

Amen Mark. Funny thing about scale lengths -- When I build and fret the neck, I find that even tho I use a scale (in this case 24 3/4") and I can measure 12 3/8" at the 12th fret, the scale is never exactly 24 3/4". It might be longer or shorter. Depends. Yes, I know the reason but odd tho still.

 

Bill, Just trust what you did. OH and if you printed a template off onto paper, keep in mind that any printer won't print at exactly 100%. You will have to fudge sometimes. I print off a series of marks from a graphics program, measure, get the difference and print off at the correct percentage. For me its usually 98.5% or scale the image up 101.523%

 

And its a good idea to measure in mm instead of inches.

 

-WY

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Permalink Reply by Mungo Park on April 22, 2011 at 4:22pm

I have a metal yard stick ruler something like this one:

http://www.draftingsteals.com/20612.html

It has metric which I find much easier to use for frets and the ruler is much better than the tape measure, the little tab on the end of the tape adds some room for error, the ruler is easier to use and more accurate, added bonus I use this ruler for neck alignment, and nut to bridge placement.  Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go.  I use a mechanical pencil with a really small tip some use a razor knife but I make mistakes and pencil is easier to erase.                       Cheers Ron.

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on April 22, 2011 at 6:46pm

in my experience with cutting fret slots..

if it looks right, it is..

even if a fret slot is out buy half a millimeter you can detect it with your eye, the logarithmic curve they get closer to each other by as you run your eye down the neck is obvious and apparent.   (assuming you're doing equal temperament of course)

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Permalink Reply by jim on April 22, 2011 at 7:33pm

ditto

Jef Long said:

in my experience with cutting fret slots..

if it looks right, it is..

even if a fret slot is out buy half a millimeter you can detect it with your eye, the logarithmic curve they get closer to each other by as you run your eye down the neck is obvious and apparent.   (assuming you're doing equal temperament of course)

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Permalink Reply by The Phrygian Kid on April 22, 2011 at 11:05pm

actually i'd recommend clamping the ruler down so it cannot move while you make the markings..

Mungo Park said:

... Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go.  .....

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Permalink Reply by Bill Harbour on April 23, 2011 at 2:45am

Awesome...I'll look into ordering the 36" ruler.  I attempted to upload a pic of the neck, but it didn't work or will take a very long time to upload.  Is there something in my security settings to set so I can upload a pic?

 

Tnx,

Mungo Park said:

I have a metal yard stick ruler something like this one:

http://www.draftingsteals.com/20612.html

It has metric which I find much easier to use for frets and the ruler is much better than the tape measure, the little tab on the end of the tape adds some room for error, the ruler is easier to use and more accurate, added bonus I use this ruler for neck alignment, and nut to bridge placement.  Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go.  I use a mechanical pencil with a really small tip some use a razor knife but I make mistakes and pencil is easier to erase.                       Cheers Ron.

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Permalink Reply by Bill Harbour on April 23, 2011 at 2:56am

I created an album call first build and the pics of the neck is there.  Thanks again everyone!

Bill Harbour said:

Awesome...I'll look into ordering the 36" ruler.  I attempted to upload a pic of the neck, but it didn't work or will take a very long time to upload.  Is there something in my security settings to set so I can upload a pic?

 

Tnx,

Mungo Park said:

I have a metal yard stick ruler something like this one:

http://www.draftingsteals.com/20612.html

It has metric which I find much easier to use for frets and the ruler is much better than the tape measure, the little tab on the end of the tape adds some room for error, the ruler is easier to use and more accurate, added bonus I use this ruler for neck alignment, and nut to bridge placement.  Do not measure from fret to fret, place the ruler on the fretboard and do not move it just squint on down along the ruler as you go.  I use a mechanical pencil with a really small tip some use a razor knife but I make mistakes and pencil is easier to erase.                       Cheers Ron.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Nelson on April 23, 2011 at 2:31pm

I've always wondered what the reason is for the varying actual scale length. Does it have to do with the action or string thickness?

Wes "Moanin' Mule" Yates said:

Amen Mark. Funny thing about scale lengths -- When I build and fret the neck, I find that even tho I use a scale (in this case 24 3/4") and I can measure 12 3/8" at the 12th fret, the scale is never exactly 24 3/4". It might be longer or shorter. Depends. Yes, I know the reason but odd tho still.

 

Bill, Just trust what you did. OH and if you printed a template off onto paper, keep in mind that any printer won't print at exactly 100%. You will have to fudge sometimes. I print off a series of marks from a graphics program, measure, get the difference and print off at the correct percentage. For me its usually 98.5% or scale the image up 101.523%

 

And its a good idea to measure in mm instead of inches.

 

-WY

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Hank Bruner on April 23, 2011 at 6:26pm

I tried the method used by Uncle Crow, It works every time for me. This is it in a nutshell, Start by measuring from point where neck meets nut,in centimeters, to the front of the bridge. You can put the bridge anywhere  you think it looks right on your cbg. Place your tape measure on the neck with the distance you want exactly at the nut, the end of the tape goes to the bridge. Lets say you want your scale to be 24 3/4 inches, that would make about 62.9 centimeters, from nut to bridge. Multiply 62.9 x 0.9439, which gives you a result of 59.37131, rounded to 59.4 centimeters. Make your fret mark. Multiply 59.37131x 0.9439, result, 56.040.... rounded to 56 centimeters, make your fret mark. Keep repeating this formula to the end of your neck. The 12th fret will be in the exact location it should be, every time if done right. Keep on keepin on, crank it to leven n scream!

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Permalink Reply by Hank Bruner on April 23, 2011 at 6:31pm

You are so very right about the human eye being accurate, it can detect errors of 1/10,000 of an inch in shapes and surfaces.
Jef Long said:

in my experience with cutting fret slots..

if it looks right, it is..

even if a fret slot is out buy half a millimeter you can detect it with your eye, the logarithmic curve they get closer to each other by as you run your eye down the neck is obvious and apparent.   (assuming you're doing equal temperament of course)

• ▶ Reply

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