Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jim on October 21, 2010 at 9:31am

i'd say put soem ribs inside the rib. i am not saying this from expirence though, just from what i would infer

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Permalink Reply by David L. on October 21, 2010 at 9:47am

Hi Carverman,


Apologies for missing the r in a previous post and calling you Caveman - no insult intended :O)

What gauge strings are you planning on using? There is a string gauge calculator here to give you an idea of the tension you will get http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com/stringxxiii.html - I tend to use 8s or 9s (8s on a 65cm scale are only giving 37kg). Check out Smokehouse guitars group there is a great section on how to brace the box if you are going for a 6 string.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/group/smokehouseguitars/forum/topics/...

If you haven't found this group yet check it out as there are several quality tutorials on how to build a CBG.

Onto your question regarding a bridge - I used a floating Rick-o-matic type bridge in my last build which was an 8 string CBG

I filed the saddles for runs of 2 x 4 but originally it was for a 6 string.

They look like this close up

I looked recently on the www and one of the cheapest places to buy is from Bezdez an ebay seller in Ontario - I have bought other bridges off them before and they are excellent (- for Canada I think after one item the rest are free postage) http://stores.ebay.co.uk/bezdez

or specifically for the bridge above http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2205651092...


The boxes I have used are 35mm wooden slide boxes because it is really hard to get a decent cigar box in the uk and through luck found these fit a typical full scale and are a comfortable size to use. Previously I have put a few bracing strips down the inside front of the box and add hinges top and bottom to stop the string tension pulling the lid up. For the 8 string I added more bracing which if you are interested I have photos on mypage (click on my icon) - I don't have many power tools (basic hand drill and a dremel type thing) so cobbled together the bracing from several bits of wood that fitted the gap. I did add some extra thin strips to the top after I took the pictures but the plywood lid on these boxes are fairly strong. Regards, David

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Permalink Reply by carverman on October 22, 2010 at 1:01am

David Lloyd said:

Hi Carverman,


Apologies for missing the r in a previous post and calling you Caveman - no insult intended :O) No insult taken. LOL! I often get that type of misspelling and in fact..I am a bit of a "caveman"
these days, but being a retired wood carver/wood worker..I generally use the other online persona.



What gauge strings are you planning on using? There is a string gauge calculator here to give you an idea of the tension you will get http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com/stringxxiii.html - I tend to use 8s or 9s (8s on a 65cm scale are only giving 37kg).

The string guages I use depend on the types of guitars that I own and play. My big "jazz boxes"
are typical .012s to 054s, the Les Pauls and others are typically .010 to .046.

Check out Smokehouse guitars group there is a great section on how to brace the box if you are going for a 6 string. http://www.cigarboxnation.com/group/smokehouseguitars/forum/topics/...

If you haven't found this group yet check it out as there are several quality tutorials on how to build a CBG.

Onto your question regarding a bridge - I used a floating Rick-o-matic type bridge in my last build which was an 8 string CBG

I filed the saddles for runs of 2 x 4 but originally it was for a 6 string.

They look like this close up

Excellent! This what I like about CBG Nation. People who are willing to help out a first
timer in their builds. I have made 3 sem-solid Les Paul types in the last 2 years,
but this is my first CBG and some things, like bracing inside a CB is a new area
of discovery for me. I would like to do it "right" the first time..if I can.

I looked recently on the www and one of the cheapest places to buy is from Bezdez an ebay seller in Ontario - I have bought other bridges off them before and they are excellent (- for Canada I think after one item the rest are free postage) http://stores.ebay.co.uk/bezdez

or specifically for the bridge above http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2205651092...


Thanks for that lead!


The boxes I have used are 35mm wooden slide boxes because it is really hard to get a decent cigar box in the uk and through luck found these fit a typical full scale and are a comfortable size to use. Previously I have put a few bracing strips down the inside front of the box and add hinges top and bottom to stop the string tension pulling the lid up. For the 8 string I added more bracing which if you are interested I have photos on mypage (click on my icon) - I don't have many power tools (basic hand drill and a dremel type thing) so cobbled together the bracing from several bits of wood that fitted the gap. I did add some extra thin strips to the top after I took the pictures but the plywood lid on these boxes are fairly strong.

Regards,
David

Thanks, I look at your pics to get a better idea of what to do.

I'm thinking now that I will build a second one with a larger/longer box and make that box myself this time out of spanish cedar, and brace it inside with ideas that I get from you and others.
This is a Great Site and very helpful interactive people.

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Permalink Reply by carverman on October 24, 2010 at 3:36am

This question goes out to all you 6 string master builders.

I'm trying to figure out how to mount my CB onto the neck block and come up with a suitable
heel profile. Now I want to open the CB lid to get at the infrastructure/wiring inside at a later
date, if required, so it would appear to me that the 20 fret FB should stop at the lid edge.
Now here is my question: Is there a neck or FB offset angle to deal with the bridge and action
for these 6 string CBGs?

On the Les Paul, the neck/FB offset is about 4.5 degrees from the horizontal, and that allows
the tuna-matic bridge height to be set to the correct height for a nice low action.

I don't know how this applies or even if it does on CBGs. I made my neck straight, so IF
I have to install a thin wedge on top where the FB is glued in, I would like to know in advance
if that is required, before gluing down the FB.

Thanks to all that may have some info on this.

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Permalink Reply by carverman on October 25, 2010 at 6:47am

Jim said:

i'd say put some ribs inside the rib. i am not saying this from expirence though, just from what i would infer

Maybe my question was mis-understood? I wasn't talking specifically about the ribs or top strengthing/support in the vicinity of the bridge..I was referring to the actual bridge itself.

I don't want to use a metal bridge. Instead of metal, some kind of wooden archtop bridge (the typical one withthe string compensated "saddle" that has two brass posts and knurled thumb adjuster discs that raise the top part of the bridge up and down.

Has anyone used this type and what is the neck/FB offset (if any) to be able to set the action at
a reasonable low level (1/8" off the last fret)?

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Permalink Reply by Reverend Hellgood on October 25, 2010 at 6:18pm

They may be hard to come by, but I would suggest trying yo find a 6 string banjo bridge. There a quite a few companies making 6 string banjos, so there must be some after market bridges out there. My 4 string CBG uses a banjo bridge. I think it's awesome.

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Permalink Reply by carverman on November 2, 2010 at 5:47am

Thanks for the info Rev DoGood. I think I've got it figured out now. I've made a 3 point
maple bridge with a slot for the bone saddle. I've got a ebony saddle made for it right now,
but if that doesn't sound quite right, I'll put in a radiused bone saddle for my 6 string
which uses a 12" Gibson radius 20 fret FB.

Thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions.
Seeing other peoples workmanship is definitely inspiring.

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