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Bracing

One of my favorite things about this hobby is that new challenges pop up with every build. I have been building for about two years now, and I have never found it necessary to add bracing to a box lid. Well, the time has come. The lid of the box in the attached photo flexes easily towards what will be the tail of the guitar, right where I will be placing the bridge. I often use 1/4" thick red oak hobby board for my fretboards. I was thinking of cutting some of this into narrow strips to use for bracing. But, placement of bracing is where I could benefit from some discussion. Should I only brace the part of the box lid that flexes, or add them over the entire length if the box lid? Perpendicular or parallel to the lid? Any other considerations? I would love to hear your opinions and advice, and see some photos!

Cheers!

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on April 4, 2016 at 8:02am

My opinion is bracing does help a fair bit in livening up a cigar box lid,but with such a small area you don't need a lot,i generally,just use 1 strip of cedar 6 mm thick,about 15 mm high curving or tapering to 4/5 mm high at each end,i slant my braces forward on the bass side to the rear on the treble at about a 6/7 degree angle to square,this might not be the best angle,but i just copied the main brace on an accoustic and it worked well so i didn't experiment further,i also don't have the brace making contact for full length,just 25 mm each end and about 40mm in the centre with the in between shaved a bit to clear the lid

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Permalink Reply by Mickey Ray Parker on April 4, 2016 at 8:37am

Awesome. Thanks!

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Permalink Reply by Grandpa on April 4, 2016 at 8:30am

I have often had to brace a box lid under the bridge. I usually use a piece of the wooden strips that usually line the inside of most cigar boxes. I keep a handful of these strips around for just this type of fix, basically shimming a flex point or low spot. My necks are usually notched 1/4" - 1/2" lower than the underside of the lid, running the full length of the inside of the box. I can lay piece of wood perpendicular to the neck, under the bridge. Minimal effect, I think, on the sound quality, yet stiffening the lid under the bridge to eliminate flexing due to downward pressure from the bridge. Just enough support. I usually use a small flat head screw or a couple of small brad nails to keep the shim in place. Hope this is helpful.

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Permalink Reply by Mickey Ray Parker on April 4, 2016 at 8:35am

Definitely helpful. I was wondering if those cedar strips would work. I have a ton of them lying around. Thanks!

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on April 4, 2016 at 9:14am

Just want to add,my reasoning for bracing is,i feel the pressure from the bridge causes the top to bow and sort of pre load,making it less likely to to resist and resonate as well without that little bit of stiffness

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Permalink Reply by Mickey Ray Parker on April 4, 2016 at 9:18am

That makes plenty of sense.

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on April 4, 2016 at 3:50pm

I used wood coffee stir sticks in an "X" on this build, (very) loosely patterned after what is done for acoustic or classical guitars, some of those have very elaborate bracing.

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Permalink Reply by JL on April 5, 2016 at 1:48am

I haven't done bracing yet, but I've already planned for it. following the example of the violin/viola/cello brace called a "bass bar" and using a brace parallel to the neck, tapered at the ends, set just a tad outside the bridge's footprint.