After removing the paper from a box, any good suggestions on some sort of binding or dressing the rough edges of a standard box. Some a re ply and have rough, uneven edges. I would like a way to make them "cleaner". Thanks.
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Well you learned how much you DONT have to do next time.Thats valuable information!
I've never taken a box apart,tho most every box I use gets beefed up at least somewhat before I use it.It may not be necessary but it makes me feel better about an instrument I'm selling.And I sell most everything I build.If I'm using color on a box I put on a light coat of clear poly to seal the grain 1st, then light sand the raised grain smooth and then go for the color, and then put a last coat of clear poly on to seal the color in.
So basically me taking the box apart seemed a little much. Since I think the ~1/2" veneer strips (or the like) is the way I'm gonna go, I could very well have taken the paper off, sanded the box to what I needed, applied the veneer, finished, and be done with it.
Now I have to put the box all back together. Oh well. It was an experiment to begin with in a way.
I dont do much of anything to the edge grain on box ends except I sand the end grain as normal, and I sand a little more then the rest of the box sides.
I then sand the end grain with the finest sand paper I have on hand to get the end grain closed up MORE SO then the rest of the box.The more you can close the end grain the less stain/sealer it will take so it wont come out darker then the rest of the side grain.It also helps when you get to the stage where you put on the gloss if thats the way your going with that project.
When I worked making custom office furniture we used to use 1.5mm thick (16th inch) heat-bonded veneer edging on some of the smaller panels, mainly oak, walnut and cherry veneers through an edge banding machine. But it comes in a roll and can be applied using a clothes iron, as it is pre-glued. Once cool we would use a rasp and sand paper to clean it up. The only problem is I have no idea where you would be able to acquire it; perhaps if you have a local cabinetry shop? Alternately, I've done repairs with veneer using white wood glue, spreading the glue on the edge, pressing on the veneer, then using an iron to quick dry it. Again cleaning it up with a rasp and sandpaper on a sanding block.
When I worked making custom office furniture we used to use 1.5mm thick (16th inch) heat-bonded veneer edging on some of the smaller panels, mainly oak, walnut and cherry veneers through an edge banding machine. But it comes in a roll and can be applied using a clothes iron, as it is pre-glued. Once cool we would use a rasp and sand paper to clean it up. The only problem is I have no idea where you would be able to acquire it; perhaps if you have a local cabinetry shop? Alternately, I've done repairs with veneer using white wood glue, spreading the glue on the edge, pressing on the veneer, then using an iron to quick dry it. Again cleaning it up with a rasp and sandpaper on a sanding block.
Wes Yates said:
Yeah, I'm not too much concerned with wood grain. I figure it would not be flush anyhow, so no biggie.
Also I like Teds idea of contrasting the wood color. I might stain the edging walnut or some deep red. I was going to stain/finish the panels anyhow, so this might look good.
-Wes
Paul Doug said:
Wes, the only problem I see with using that is if you want to match grain direction, you will have to cut the thin stuff cross grain. You may have to put some kind of thin backing on it to hold it together, but maybe not.. Or, glue it in place and than trim it off with razor blade and sandpaper.
Wes Yates said:
Here are the pics of the panels and "veneer" Images removed for brevity. I knew I would need this stuff.
Yeah, I'm not too much concerned with wood grain. I figure it would not be flush anyhow, so no biggie.
Also I like Teds idea of contrasting the wood color. I might stain the edging walnut or some deep red. I was going to stain/finish the panels anyhow, so this might look good.
-Wes
Paul Doug said:
Wes, the only problem I see with using that is if you want to match grain direction, you will have to cut the thin stuff cross grain. You may have to put some kind of thin backing on it to hold it together, but maybe not.. Or, glue it in place and than trim it off with razor blade and sandpaper.
Wes Yates said:
Here are the pics of the panels and "veneer" Images removed for brevity. I knew I would need this stuff.
Wes, the only problem I see with using that is if you want to match grain direction, you will have to cut the thin stuff cross grain. You may have to put some kind of thin backing on it to hold it together, but maybe not.. Or, glue it in place and than trim it off with razor blade and sandpaper.
Wes Yates said:
All, I also had an epiphany today -- in church of all places. Ok, so I have taken the box apart which was secured with staples (oh and its an Arturo Fuente Churchill box. Might be helpful to mention that). I was thinking to make thin kerfing out of poplar strips (easy to do on my band saw) and reapply the sides using that and glue. Then sand/plane the outside edges to a 45deg bevel. That might do it. I will test.
Replies
I've never taken a box apart,tho most every box I use gets beefed up at least somewhat before I use it.It may not be necessary but it makes me feel better about an instrument I'm selling.And I sell most everything I build.If I'm using color on a box I put on a light coat of clear poly to seal the grain 1st, then light sand the raised grain smooth and then go for the color, and then put a last coat of clear poly on to seal the color in.
Now I have to put the box all back together. Oh well. It was an experiment to begin with in a way.
-Wes
I then sand the end grain with the finest sand paper I have on hand to get the end grain closed up MORE SO then the rest of the box.The more you can close the end grain the less stain/sealer it will take so it wont come out darker then the rest of the side grain.It also helps when you get to the stage where you put on the gloss if thats the way your going with that project.
Lewis Lee said:
Wes Yates said:
Also I like Teds idea of contrasting the wood color. I might stain the edging walnut or some deep red. I was going to stain/finish the panels anyhow, so this might look good.
-Wes
Paul Doug said:
Wes Yates said:
Panels
Veneer
Thickness I knew I would need this stuff.Thanks all. No pics yet. Sorry. Have been busy.
See below!
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