This has nothing to do with a CBG, but the situation I was dealing with and how I overcame it could be helpful to someone as far as building technique/solutions are concerned.

I acquired a set neck body for a SG type guitar on FB Marketplace for a good deal, finding a neck for it wasn't easy.
I had also acquired a Gibson scale bolt on neck for a cheap amount.
So I thought about adapting the bolt on neck to the set neck body. I was working on a set-neck SG kit and compared the 2 and decided that I'd make a "spacer" to glue in the neck pocket to bolt the neck onto or glue the neck to or both!

The spacer would have to have a degree cut of 4 degrees to give the neck the right tilt, but it would have to have the neck at the right height and the part in the neck pickup cavity would need to remain a certain thickness without interferring with the neck pickup height adjustment.

Using the kit set-neck to get all my adjustments and checking the bolt on neck measurements, then subtracting the last from the first, I was able to get the right measurements for the needed spacer. I made 4 spacers before I got it all correct and cut right. I used some Red Oak I had in my shop for strength and had to orientate the wood to ensure that I wouldn't be gluing or bolting into end grain.

The spacer at the body pickup cavity is 10mm thick, 12mm thick at the end of the neck past the 22nd fret and 5mm at the 17th fret where the spacer ends.
Total length of spacer is 115mm
Width is 57mm to fit the neck cavity tightly and happened to be right with the neck width.

I'll be attaching the spacer first and then the neck being careful to get it in it's right scale position, making sure it's high enough for strings to be in plane with the bridge and making sure the neck is straight so outer strings with have good spacing on the fretboard without dropping off.

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these 3 pics show the mock up, the contour I'll need to carve and the way the spacer gives the needed degree.



Hey Rooster, you have to click the HTML Editor button on top right of the window to post.

I found out that the spacer is actually 1/16" too tall.

I made a jig for my router and got my router out and discovered that it got wet during storage and rusted up in lock mode. I got the motor freed up but the collet wouldn't budge after 4 days of sitting in penetrating oil. The router was 20 years old(Craftsman) so off I went to get a new one. My angle grinder died 2 months ago so I bought a new Dewalt angle grinder and router with plunge adapter for my Christmas present.

I got the spacer trimmed down, but noticed that the degree seemed off. Then it came to me, I made me degree jig 4 degrees from 90 degrees on my Miter Saw. That actually gave it a 8 degree angle on my spacer.
The spacer was already glued in so I cut a new spacer from 0 degrees and glued it in place. Now this body is ready to place the neck, get sanded for primer/paint/clear.
How did I get the 4 degree cut from 0 degrees on a Miter Saw that doesn't have a 0 mark? First I put a 2x4 in and did a 45 degree cut, with that board still in place I used it as a stop base and put my 1x3 board against it(standing up), move the degree setting back to 41 degrees and cut.

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